Archive for the ‘LEDs’ Category

Haitz’s Law

Sunday, January 8th, 2012

As manufacturers strive for market share in the burgeoning LED lighting market each tries to outdo the other with ever-improving efficacy claims. But just how far can the LED chip makers go and how soon will they get there?

Equally important: LED cost is plummeting. Thanks to a phenomenon known as Haitz’s Law, LED cost is said to be falling by a factor of 10 every decade, while the light generated per package rises by a factor of 20.

Haitz’s law is an observation and forecast about the steady improvement, over many years, of light-emitting diodes (LED). It states that every decade, the cost per lumen (unit of useful light emitted) falls by a factor of 10, the amount of light generated per LED package increases by a factor of 20, for a given wavelength (color) of light. It is considered the LED counterpart to Moore’s law.

LED Efficacy Improvement Shows No Signs of Slowing article briefly explores the historical trend of improving efficacy of high-brightness LEDs, considers the theoretical efficiency limits, and takes a look at how contemporary devices stack up. Finally, the article takes a look at what manufacturers such as Cree and OSRAM are up to in their R&D labs to find out how tomorrow’s chips will perform. Rapid increases in LED efficacy show no sign of slowing just yet. And with a mainstream lighting market for LEDs potentially worth billions of dollars, manufacturers are not shy about pouring hundreds of millions into R&D.

Fundamentals: LED color chart

Friday, December 23rd, 2011

Fundamentals: LED color chart article gives a brief review on color temperature and how it affects white LED light.

Despite the fact that LEDs produce light by a process other than heating, we still use correlated color temperature (CCT) when describing the appearance of the LED as it relates to the appearance of a black body radiator. Color Temperature is a standard method of describing white color for use in a range of situations and with different equipment, but note that the term degrees kelvin is not technically correct.

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Color “Temperature” is actually a measure of the relative amounts of red or blue light being emitted. Higher color temperatures have more blue. White and blue LEDs have a color temperature, but LEDs not in the white-blue spectrum do not.

Most white LED lamps fall under three basic categorical descriptions: “warm white,” “pure white,” and “cool white.” When the glow of the white LED light is slightly yellow, it’s typically around 3000° Kelvin (K), referred to as “warm white.” “pure white” LED light measures at around 4500°K. “cool blue” white light displays a reading of 6500°K or more. Standard for White Color LED Lighting Fixtures document outlines a proposed definition of standard for white color LED lighting fixtures defined within C.I.E. 1931 chromaticity diagram (degrees Kelvin only as a reference measurement).

Warm light is best used in living spaces as it tends to be more flattering to clothing and skin tones. Cool light, on the other hand, is preferred for visual tasks, as it produces excellent contrast. Fundamentals: LED color chart has a table on the end of the article that shows easy-to-remember basics for best application practices for different applications. Which Color Temperature Do You Prefer?

For more LED information read also Notes on LEDs article.

LED light bulbs

Friday, November 11th, 2011

First created in 1967, the LED (light emitting diode) is a forward direction radiation emitting p-n junction semiconductor lamp. Although typically the light generated is within the visible spectrum, the radiation emitted can also be a non visible inferred light. Originally the LED was utilized as an indicator light for display panels on devices and machinery, and typically only in red. Next the light began to come in green, yellow, and orange.

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Despite their efficiency and long lasting capabilities their intensity was only enough to be adequate for indoor use. It wasn’t until the 90’s that the industry finally began to see blue LEDs. Still the power ability was limited and although they became available in a wide variety of colors, and it wasn’t until relatively recent times that the white light LED was an widely accessible option. There have been many different methods created to get a white light LED, which has typically been done by manipulating the phosphorus or using multiple lights.
Now that the white LED lights are possible this has opened a door to the industry that has had potentially long lasting ramifications on our everyday living. With the new cost effective ways in which these bulbs can now be manufactured, combined with their durability and increasing intensity LEDs have already begun to replace traditional incandescent light bulbs in almost every part of our daily lives. You can now find replacement LED household light bulbs, recreational vehicle lighting, and combined with HID (high-intensity discharge), which is a new technology that gives off a very powerful and bright light, headlights.

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The benefits to LED lights cannot be overstated. The compact florescent bulb, which was created as a viable alternative utilizes nearly a quarter less energy than the standard bulb, which over the course of its lifetime will consumer as much as 10 times the energy of its initial cost. As a base if you were to use a 20 watt bulb, which is just sufficient to read by, and compare it to what power would be necessary to produce the same amount of light with a cluster of LEDs, it would only take a comparable 1.2 watts. Additionally the lifespan of the basic household incandescent light bulb is 750 hours, and comparatively you can get a remarkable average life of 100,000 hours from a LED.
Because the LED does not require a filament they can be crafted to be solid, which enables them to be highly durable and useful in circumstances that would otherwise be impossible. Now you can see vehicles with single LED pods and lighting strips that illuminate them in magical and unusual ways. You can now find sleek looking motorcycles that give a futuristic glow as they speed past. With the invention of super bright LEDs, with their high efficiency and long lasting durability, the future looks bright for LED lighting.

This article was contributed to ePanorama.net by http://www.ledlightswarehouse.com

Replacing fluorescent lamp with LED

Saturday, October 8th, 2011

The idea if replacing fluorescent light bulbs with LEDs seems to become popular. There are different kind of products made for that purpose, some are good and some not so good. So I felt it was now good time to test this technology.

LED technology promises to reduce power consumption about 50% of fluorescent bulbs and your replacement period becomes 10+ years. Good promises if those hold true. Modern LED tubes are designed so that they can be just plugged in place of original fluorescent lamp

I have read that a plenty of low quality LED tubes hit the market, some that do not hold their promises and some even potentially dangerous. I think that it is now right time test this myself. My intention on the test was to see how see the LED tube replacement technology nowadays it and get rid of the lamp flickering (tube flickers when you turn on light). The possibility to energy was a secondary option because I live in Finland (cold climate) and the heating the house uses electrical heating, meaning that I would really get energy saving on some summer months when the main heating is not used.

The lamp where I wanted to replace the bulb was in toilet. The first task was to check the power of the original tube and the socket type it used. For socket type identification Light Guide: Compact Fluorescent Lamp Identification was an useful document. The original tube turned to be 18W tube with G24 base.

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The replacement bulb I used was G24 13W 52-5050 SMD LED Warm White Light Lamp Bulb (85~265V) ($20.30) from Dealextreme.

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Lamp specifications:
- Ultra bright high intensity 52-5050 SMD LED warm white light bulb
- Quality aluminum shell
- Power: 13W
- Voltage: 85~265V
- Color: Warm white
- Connector: G24

What I was first is that this bulb does have bare SMD LEDs that you can see on the front. There is no protective glass/plastic over them. The wiring to LEDs is visible, which seems to be a little bit frightening knowing that those wires can have mains voltage on them (unless the LED power supply is isolated which I quess it not). While bare wiring looks somewhat frightening, the product does not look to dangerous because you can’t in any easy way touch those wires. The LEDs are put so near each other that you can’t touch those wires with your fingers. And in addition to that this bulb will go to the lamp in the ceiling that has a protective cover on this. So electrical safety seems to be OK here.

The bulb worked well when just plugged on the place of the original bulb. No problems worked nicely. This worked well, and no more annoying flashing when light is turned on (fluorescent flashes few time before goes on, this one starts immediately). This bulb gives out equivalent amount of light as the original 18W bulb (looked the same and gave same lux reading with lux-meter on the front).

I did the light measurements with Mastech MS8209 multimeter with lux range front of bulb 50 cm distance from the lamp on the ceiling. When installed inside the lamp, the reading with original 18W bulb was 560 lux and with 13W LED that was 565 lux. The LED bulb itself gave 800-900 lux from 50 cm distance when measured outside the lamp (no ceiling lamp from glass between the LED source and meter).

The light distribution was a little bit different with the original tube and this new replacement, but not too different to cause problems on the application.

The end results is that G24 13W 52-5050 SMD LED Warm White Light Lamp Bulb (85~265V) is cheap and well working LED replacement for G24 fluorescent bulb. Installation is easy, just plug into place. Works as promised.

Bumps in the road ahead for solid-state lighting

Friday, October 7th, 2011

LED retrofit lamps have started to show up on retail shelves. Many players in the LED industry are giddy about the anticipated growth over the next few years. Nevertheless, the road to success for LED lighting will not be completely smooth, as there are a number of pitfalls to navigate.

Bumps in the road ahead for solid-state lighting article gives a picture of the expected pitfalls. Some of the potential problems ahead are pricing, color quality, thermal management, regulatory, and consumer education. While most of these issues are not technical, the design engineer will nonetheless need to understand them.

While white LEDs are very efficient light sources, converting approximately one-third of the input power into light, the remaining two-thirds is converted into heat in the LED. Currently impossible to passively cool an LED that outputs 1,500 lm (the typical output of a 100-W light bulb) in the physical confines of the normal light bulb size form factor. So at 100 lm/W, about 10 W must be continuously and rapidly dissipated while keeping the LED well below maximum operating temperature (typically approximately 120ºC).

Thermal management will get somewhat easier in the future. As LED efficiencies improve, the thermal management improves by approximately the square of the efficiency, because the total power supplied to the LED decreases and the percentage of heat generated by that input power also decreases by the same amount.

Color quality may be the most difficult problem to solve. The industry has spent tremendous time and expense in measuring and controlling the color variability of white LEDs. But color temperature and tight chromaticity binning don’t tell the complete story, because two light sources with identical chromaticity coordinates may have very different wavelength spectra. LED spectrum is very different from the incandescent’s spectrum. If the spectra are too different, non-white surfaces will appear to be different colors under the two light sources. The Color Rendering Index or CRI is a measure of how closely the perceived color of a surface illuminated by a particular light source will be to the perceived color of the same surface under incandescent illumination. A CRI of 100 is a perfect match. A CRI above 80 for an LED is considered good.

In the short term, LED retrofit bulbs will make the initial splash, but in the long term there are great opportunities for custom LED luminaires. LEDs make possible much more complex form factors and consequently can create more interesting and useable illumination patterns than traditional bulbs and CFLs. Imagine a luminaire that not only is dimmable, but one that you can select the color temperature you desire.

When LED efficiencies reach the 150 lm/W range, it will become feasible to increase office lighting to 1,000 lux, as opposed to the 300 lux now typical in most office spaces.

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Replacing flashlight bulbs with LEDs

Sunday, October 2nd, 2011

One day I had an old flashlight that had burned light bulb on it. It was a small cheap model powered with two AA batteries. I could fix it with new light bulb, but going through the trouble of trying to find exactly suitable replacement light bulb felt like more than the value of the flashlight.

If I need to replace the bulb with new one, why not convert the lamp to use LED instead.The lamp runs on two AA batteries in series. They give out around 3V voltage. That’s about the same voltage drop many white LEDs have (typically 2.8-3.5V or so). I had earlier found out that some white LEDs can be directly powered with 3V battery without any current limiting electronics. You just need to find out suitable LED. Some small LED lamps are driving white LED with 3V lithium button cells without a resistor! There are LEDs out there with internal resistors. And there are some LED that just work.

The general advice is that DO NOT use LEDS without a current limiting resistor in series with the LED. The forward voltage rating is TYPICAL and can vary from part to part, so while some LEDs may work fine just connected to a battery of the proper voltage, others will be easily over-driven and be destroyed.

Driving an LED with or without a resistor article on the other hand says that if you are able to run your complete circuit with the same voltage as forward voltage of the LED, perfect. No resistor needed. If you try to run run a 3.2 /3.4 volt warm white of a 3 volt power supply, you will get light but not the maximum amount. But usually enough for small flashlight application anyways. I had even used this idea on my LED light ring for macro photography project, so I was pretty comfortable with this idea.

Now all I need was to find suitable LED from my electronics junk box. I could check the datasheet or do measurements to verify suitability of the LED. It seemed that quite many white LEDs can be run from 3V battery without limiting resistor. But it is best to verify with measurement that things work well. I took a random white LED and put it to Kemo M087 LED testing box. I tested the voltage drop of the LED and different currents from 5 mA to 20 mA (and very quicly with 50 mA). The LED seemed to take somewhat less than 3V at 5 mA and 10 mA. At 20 mA the voltage drop was around 3.2V. At 50 mA the voltage drop was around 3.4V. With this data I could expect that with two new AA batteries in series (gives around 1.6V each) the LED would take around 20 mA current and the current would drop from that when batteries wear out. With this data it seems that this LED would work here.

The next step was just building the LED bulb replacement. Here is a small DIY flashlight bulb LED replacement. It consists of the lamp base (small edison base from old broken bulb), 5mm white LED, solder tin and hot glue. The LED anode goes to the center of the light bulb base.

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Here is picture of my LED bulb in the flashlight in use.

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Now I have a nice working flashlight that is not very bright, but that has a very long battery life.

If this modification looks interesting, then you might wonder how to convert lamps with different number of batteries to LED lamps. With flashlights that use three batteries or mode, the standard method to use would a white LED + suitable current limiting electronics does job. A resistor will work nut switch mode current source is better. For 20 mA LED and 4.5V operation voltage a 75 ohms or 82 ohms resistor will do. For other operating voltages and LED currents, do your own LED resistor calculations.

If your flashlight uses just one 1.5V battery, you will need a switch mode power supply that boosts the battery voltage to over 3V and limits the current. Joule Thief is a nickname for a minimalist self-oscillating voltage booster that is small, low-cost, and easy-to-build. It can use nearly all of the energy in an electric battery, even far below the voltage where other circuits consider the battery fully discharged (or “dead”). The energy is converter to current and voltage suitable for driving white LED. Make a joule thief if you want to drive white LED from one 1.5V battery.

Philips winning LED-based 60W replacement bulb

Monday, September 26th, 2011

Philips wins $10M L Prize for LED-based 60W replacement bulb article tells that Philips wins $10M L Prize for LED-based 60W replacement bulb. The bulbs had to meet or exceed a set of requirements: greater than 900lm at 10W or less (efficacy of greater than 90W/lm) at a color-corrected temperature (CCT) of 2700-3000K and a color rendering index (CRI) of at least 90.

The winning Philips bulb uses a clever remote phosphor system to gain a spherical distribution of light. For more details on that read the Philips LED bulb tear-down article.

L Prize competition is planned to accelerate America’s shift from inefficient, dated lighting products to innovative, high-performance products. DOE’s first L Prize category launched in 2008 targets the 60-watt bulb because it is one of the most widely used types of light bulbs by consumers, representing roughly half of the domestic incandescent light bulb market (more than 425 million bulbs sold in USA every year).

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Video coat

Friday, September 16th, 2011

Friday special: Groovy Video Coat video I found on Internet:

More details on electronics can be found on Groovy Video Coat pictures and this Video Coat Prototype video:

Electrolytic capacitor life

Sunday, September 11th, 2011

As we all know, a good LED could last very long up to 50,000 hours with with a good heat sink. But how is the LED driver electronics life? For common LED drivers there is at least one component is very weak. It’s the electrolytic capacitor.

High Bay LED Lighting Driver Heat Dissipation Temperature Test Report article gives some use useful information related to electrolytic capacitor life.

Typical temperatures for the how electrolytic caps are 85°C and 105°C. Usually the life time is 2000 or 3000 hrs at one of the above temperatures. This is how electrolytic caps are specified. But the cap’s life doubles for every 10°C below that temperature. So if you go 40°C below the specified temperature, you gain a factor of 2^4 = 16. 16× 3000 hours = 48,000 hours.

If your LED driver has caps at temperature 80 °C, the LED driver only can last about 2 years or less. After that time you can expect poor performance (lowered capacitance, increased ESR) or even capacitor exploding.

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LED usage increases quickly

Friday, August 26th, 2011

Lighting apps boost LED usage article says that in in 2011, DisplaySearch predicts global LED capacity will reach 180 billion units, and by 2013 will reach 227 billion. The total average LED penetration in lighting was 1.4% in 2010 and is forecast to reach 9.3% in 2014.

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