Archive for the ‘Products’ Category

Nokia N900

Monday, October 5th, 2009

I had yesterday change to play a little bit with Nokia N900 mobile communicator at at Expert Expo in Helsinki. This brand new Nokia smartphone that you can’t yet buy anywhere, just pre-order. This device runs on Maemo Linux operating system and worked well. This device felt much better than Nokia N97. The tough screen seemed to work better and overall feeling was that the system was considerably more responsive. Linux will rock on mobile devices. There was even a X Terminal on that device available, so Linux hacker can do different things on traditional command line.

nokia-n900

Digital audio isolation

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

Isolator for digital audio is needed in cases where coaxial S/PDIF digital audio link forms a ground loop in your audio system. Typically in coaxial S/PDIF connections the coaxial cable shield is connected to equipment cases. This arrangement easily creates ground loops which can cause noise problems in various places in audio system. A suitable transformer can be used to isolate the coaxial S/PDIF signal and avoid ground loop problems (other option is to use optical connection instead of coax). Here is the circuit of the S/PDIF signal isolator I have used:

audio_isolator

ELFA catalogue product 56-550-55 “PE65612 Trafo dig.siirt.” is a tranformer suitable for isolating S/PDIF digital audio signal. The manufacturer for this product is Pulse Engineering and their product code is PE-65612.

Ratio: 1:1
Bandwidth: 100 kHz-55 MHz ±3 dB

PE65612

Here is a picture of the S/PDIF signal isoltor I built (box open):

spdifisiolator

More information on S/PDIF and related circuits can be found on my SPDIF document.

Build a Ground Loop Detector

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Ground loops are a common problem in many experimental setups. A ground loop is an un-
wanted closed loop of cables in the setup, most often through the ground system. Those ground loops are often hard to find and debug. A Ground Loop Detector document describes how to build and test a simple system to detect ground loops in experimental setups. The two circuits used are from article “Simple system for locating ground loops” by P. M. Bellan. The ideas used on those articles are used in commercial product Loop Slooth. The idea in those circuits is to induce the test signal (100 kHz) into the ground system and then detect the amplitude of that signal in different parts of the setup with help of Rogowski coil based detector circuit. The basic idea in this circuit looks very promising. I have not yet tested the presented circuits, but at some laboratory tests the basic idea behind this circuit seems to work.

Gndloopexciter

Gndloopdetector

Troubleshoot ground loops with clamp multimeter

Monday, September 21st, 2009

A normal way to troubleshoot ground loops problems in audio systems is to listen to the audio signal at the mixer with headphones. If the buzz exists at the mixer then do the following: One by one, disconnect the inputs and outputs to and from the mixer and note if the buzz decreases. This same connecting and disconnecting wires method can be used on other components of audio and video systems.

Disconnecting and then reconnecting the cables take a lot of work. This caused that ground loops are frustrating to troubleshoot in large systems where there are lots of cables.

I have found that a clamp type multimeter can help to troubleshoot ground loop problems. The ground loop noise is normally caused by the extra noise current flowing on the shields and ground wires of the cables. That noise current is normally mains voltage frequency (50 Hz / 60Hz) or it’s harmonics. Normally the signal cables should not carry any (or very little) mains frequency current in them, so by measuring this kind of current flowing on the cable it is possible to determine where the noise current flows. A clamp type multimeter is a very good tool for doing the measurements, because you can easily measure the noise current flowing on the cable with it without need to disconnect the cable or disturb the signal inside the cable. This means that you can troubleshoot a live system with clamp multimeter in AC range.

The wires which have considerable current on them are part of ground loop. The wires with most current on them are pushing most noise current to the whole system. So first locate the wires that have highest or otherwise very high current flowing in them. Then you can try to disconnect them and test if that stops the noise. Usually there is one or few cables that cause all or most ground loop current on the system. That noise current gets typically flowing around in different cables on the system, causing more or less noise problem here and there around the system. Then the real noise source or sources are disconnected, suddenly the whole system becomes noise free. When you have found out the problem source then just add suitable cure to that connection (typically signal isolation transformer or similar device).

Clamp on multimeter allows you to easily measure the current on cables. Just clamp the meter over the audio cable and get the AC current reading. If you want you can clamp several audio/video cables inside the clamp and get the reading of the sum of their noise currents (remember that there is possibility that if there are two cables with exactly same noise signal but different direction you get zero reading). Clamping the meter around a number of signal cables speeds up the troubleshooting process where there are lots of cables, for example near audio mixer. If the group of cables you measured with clamp meter shows a considerable noise current, then measure the cables individually to see which one has the most current flowing. If there was no considerable current on the cable group, continue measuring next cable group. Besides audio cables you can do the measurement with video cables, mains power cables and other signal cables.

There are few things to consider the selection of the clamp type multimeter. First the multimeter needs to measure the AC currents with the clamp. You don’t need the DC current measuring capability, although getting a clamp meter with also DC capability can make the meter more useful for other applications (usually the DC capable clamp meters are more expensive than AC only). The second thing to consider is the resolution of the meter. The ground loop currents you normally want to measure are in few mA to 1A range (in some severe case the current can be considerably more). It is preferred to have a clamp meter that can measure currents down to few mA. Unfortunately many meters with this good resolution are usually quite expensive.

Usually the cheap clamp type multimeters have 10 mA or 100 mA resolution, meaning that they can’t detect anything lower than 10 mA or 100 mA. A multimeter with 100 mA resolution is practically useless in ground loop problem solving, because over 100 mA ground loop current are not seen often. A multimeter with 10 mA resolution is already useful to troubleshoot ground loop problems, but it will not reveal you all the details in most cases. Usually 100 mA-1A current on cable means very serious noise problem on audio and video systems, currents in 10-100 mA range cause some noise problems. Usually when the current is well below 10 mA there are no considerable noise problems.

I have used a clamp meter with 10 mA successfully for troubleshooting ground loop problems, but when used that I wished I had a meter that can show even lower currents down to 1 mA or less. So if you are buying a clamp meter, consider trying to get as good resolution as possible with the money you are willing to spend it. When looking for multimeter for this application the actual measuring accuracy (measurement error percents promised) is not important, we are merely making checks if there is current flowing or not and approximately how much (just some approximation around how much current is enough).

sku_20582_1

This picture shows the cheapest I know well working clamp multimeter that can measure currents AC down to few mA currents. The meter has 1 mA resolution at 2A measurement range (the display started showing current higher than 2 mA). You can get this 1.3″ LCD Clamp Style Digital Multimeter with Pouch from Dealextreme for around 20 US dollars.

Build video isolator

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

Video isolation transformers are primarily used in CCTV application in fields of security, manufacturing, avionics and display. The video isolation transformer is an extremely broad bandpass 1:1 isolation transformer. Its hum isolation is very good and it can sustain very high noise voltages without degradation. Isolation decreases with increasing noise frequency.

Video signals can transformer isolated in many applications. Most video signal transport paths are AC coupled, so this kind of signal can pass through a suitable transformer. Video isolation transformers are used CCTV applications where they solve ground loop problems or protect system against ground potential differences between different locations.

audio_isolator

The design of a high bandwidth transformer which can go to very low and very frequencies is very hard. Video signal can have significant signal components from 50 Hz up to 6 MHz. Unfortunately in practical transformers you have to always make some compromises on low and high frequency responses (highest components of composite video can be attenuated even few dB). Signal amplitude at low frequencies is limited by core saturation and coil inductance. High frequency response is limited by leakage inductance and winding capacitance. Many video isolation transformers are only designed for CCTV other not so demanding applications application, where more signal distortion is accepted than in broadcast industry.

Lundahl LL1575 is a high bandwidth video isolation transformer designed for CCTV (closed circuit television) applications. I have used that transformer successfull to build video video isolators. That transformer has 20 Hz – 11 MHz +0 /- 3 dB frequency response (possible with special bifilar winding technique and special core construction). That transformer gives 2 kV rms isolation between primary and secondary windings.

The LL1575 datasheet recommends that if DC current is present, the transformer must be decoupled (with large capacitor). Because in many video circuits there can some DC present especially in video outputs, I thought that it would be a good idea to include suitable DC blocking capacitor to the circuit input side (on the left, connected to video signal source output). A suitable capacitor value should be 1000 uF or higher (practically demands using electrolytic capacitor) and have good high frequency characteristics (electrolytic capacitors are not good at this, ceramic etc.. would be much better here). The capacitor I used was built from 4700 uF electrolytic capacitor (gives capacitance) wired in parallel with 100 nF ceramic capacitor (handles the high frequencies where electrolytic capacitor is not good at). 25V or higher voltage rating is suitable for the application (you normally see 1Vpp video signal plus maybe few volts DC).

videoisolator_smaller

The circuit is best constructed to a small plastic box with suitable connectors. For professional applications I recommend to use BNC connectors. If all your equipment use RCA for video signal, then use those connectors if they are easier for you. Plastic box is easiest for the construction because in this way it is easy to guarantee good electrical isolation between input and output side connectors (in metal box needed isolation could be hard to do reliably).

Here ia picture of the video isolator I have built:

Videoisolator1

See inside PC parts

Monday, August 31st, 2009

You may know what the inside of a PC looks like, but what about the parts which make up your PC components? Your Hardware Exposed! 22 PC Parts Bare All article has pictures what is inside hard drives, keyboards, soundcards, and a plethora of other PC hardware. Just to see what makes them tick.

fan_405

Router speed control to light dimmer

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

More than a year ago I was approached by an independent filmmaker about light dimmers. The problem fo them was how to get affordable light dimmers to control the film lighting. I was told that many independent non-commmercial filmmakers use a HarborFreight router speed control to dim the lights used for moviemaking. The reason is that they are are cheaper and far heavier (15A) than building our own from a 600W house lights dimmer. The problem with these router speed control devices is that they do not dim down enough to turn the lights off. They also don’t quite go to full brightness but that is a minor problem as they have a switch that bypasses the electronics and provides full power.

HarborFeight43060

After some discussion I got one of these units mailed to me to see if there is a way to modify those to work as better light dimmer.First thing I did was to open the device to see how it was built out. Based on what I saw the circuit was pretty close to a traditional light dimmer. And there seemed to be also some adjustment trimmer for some adjustments. Looked promising.

Harbor_dimmer_open

The nest task was to test the device. The problem that those are designed to operate 110-120V AC 60 Hz power has a slight problem to me. In Finland the mains power is 230V AC 50 Hz. Getting real 120V 60Hz power and finding 120V AC light bulbs is hard here where I live. I got one 120V lamp with the router speed control device so I had suitable lamp. Getting real 60 Hz power would involve some expensive power converter or using 12V to 120V AC true sinewave inverter or something similar that I did not have at the moment. So I decided to do my first testing with 110V 50Hz power that I get easily with a suitable voltage conversion transformer (I used fully isolating transformer for safety).

I did some testing. I found that the controller trimmer potentiometer controls how dim the output can go. I was able to get lamp very dim. Here is the picture of the dimmer electronics with a well insulated screwdriver adjusting the trimmer (there is a hole on the circuit board that gives access to the trimmer). Well insulated screwdriver and isolation transformer powering the whole circuit makes it possible to do ajustments with live circuit pretty safely when you know what you are doing. I mailed the results back to person who sent me the router speed control and he tested the results with real 60 Hz power (they worked).

Harbor_dimmer_adjust

The adjustment instructions: Set the potentiometer lowest setting. Then adjust the trimmer so that you get as dim light as possible without noticeable side effects. When you set the trimmer to too low setting, turning potentiometer will cause the output to be completely off (lap turns off). When dimmer reaches this full iff state, the dimmer potentiometer need to be turned quite much (one third or one fouth) until the light turns back on, quite bright already. The ideal setting I think would be that the lowest dimmer potentimeter setting would just set the bulb to be just barely on (lamp filament dark red and does not make much light), so you have always full control range from it to full setting without problems.

In this way a relatively cheap router speed control device is converted to a relatively inexpensive high power light dimmer.

Resistance soldering

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

Resistance soldering is a soldering method that sometimes useful for hobby work. In this soldering methid an electrical current is flowed through one work piece, the joint and then the other work piece. Current through a resistances on the way generates heat. Most heat is normally generated on the joint because the resistance there is typically the highest.

Resistance soldering web page describes the technology in details. Resistancesoldering.com/ tells that resistance soldering can work also on some PCB work and similar applications. Resistance soldering is claimed to be good for soldering RF connectors, for example connectors on semi-rigid bases and central contacts on coaxial connectors. The soldering operation consists of clamping the parts to be assembled and adding a solder alloy. The heating process starts as soon as the foot pedal is activated and the temperature rises to the set temperature point. Look the video tutorial on soldering RF connector with resistance soldering.

According to Resistance Soldering Set document a resistance soldering set consists of a transformer that supplies 3 or 6 volts at a high current to stainless steel or carbon tips. The transformer is turned ON by a foot switch and OFF by an electronic timer (up to few seconds time). Since the soldering tips are hot only during the brief period of actual soldering, burning of wire insulation and melting of connector inserts are greatly reduced.

Build your own resistance solderer tells you how you can make your own resistance soldering iron with minimal investment. Resistance Soldering Unit is another page that gives instructions to build your own resistance soldering iron.

HDMI cable pricing

Monday, August 17th, 2009

EDN blog articlwe HDMI cables for $2 or $600? mentions article Why are HDMI cables so expensive?. In this article product researchers find little difference between a $10 and a $140 HDMI cable. The result was that the expensive cables may be made with better materials, but they don�t perform digital transmission any better than the cheap cables. At least when talking about a short cable of few feet then I don’t see any reason to pay very much for it. If your local store does not sell reasonably priced HDMI cables, then go to some other store or order on-line. Some shops seem to charge absolutely ridiculous prices for HDMI cables knowing full well that they are taking advantage of people who don�t know any better.

Another thing worth to read at HDMI cables for $2 or $600? is a story on very expensive “audiophile” cables that were sold with “story” that adding DC bias to audio cable helped sound. The dc bias to the cable was added using a 9-volt battery. It of course was adjustable ($0.05 pot) so that the lunatic fringe audiophile community could have an infinite level of adjustment and an associate infinite collective of opinions as to what was the perfect setting – pure marketing genius. Good story and “market factors” seem to sell cheap products at high price.

hdmi-connector-diagram

ColdHeat soldering iron

Monday, August 17th, 2009

Coldheat is an American company that develops and markets special soldering iron called ColdHeat. ColdHeat iron product was review at ePanorama.net eariler. The secret of that product is a proprietary graphite-like compound called Athalite. The tip of this apparatus is split into two sections that completes an electrical circuit when something of low resistance is placed across the tip; e.g. solder. With a current flowing, the resistance of both the solder and the tip produces heat that allows you to do soldering.

The original iron is powered by 4 ordinary AA (LR6) alkaline batteries. The device works by running a high current (by electronic standards) through the tip and there is considerable voltage on the tip as well. Howstuffworks ColdHeat article describes the soldering iron operation and Wikipedia also has some technical information.

I own one ColdHeat soldering iron. I have occasionally used that. That tool is practically useless for fine electronics circuit board soldering. It lacks temperature control and it is too easy to destroy sensitive electronics circuit with it. When not in contact with a joint the split tip has 6 volts, which is enough to cause lots of damage because a forward-biased p-n junction may be destroyed by less than 1V applied across it (unless current is limited to low value). There is also tiny transient voltage when the tool is applied or removed.

That tool is useful for occasional soldering of items that are not sensitive to the voltages and current the ColdHeat soldering iron generates. I have found that this soldering iron works quite well for soldering wires to some connectors. For example for soldering and repairing audio/video cables on the field. It is fast and easy when you just need to make few solder joints. When I need to make many solder joints, I prefer to use a temperature controlled normal soldering iron.

200px-cold_heat_soldering_iron_side_view