Archive for the ‘Products’ Category

WIMM One

Friday, January 27th, 2012

Some time ago I saw an interesting video of a new gadget:

The WIMM One has a worthy ambition: shifting information from your smartphone screen to your wrist. The aim is to allow you to get on with life rather than pulling your phone from your pocket every thirty seconds. WIMM is a smart watch harnesses Android, a high-tech display and sensors.

The current developer kit version is targeted at developers. Commercial versions for end-consumers are expected in the coming months. For more details read WIMM One Developer Kit Review. Looks interesting based on the video and interview article.

Hy the way another interesting hacker watch product is EZ430-Chronos from Texas Instruments. I have seen this Chronos product in real life on hand of one TI field application engineer.

Fused multimeter probes

Thursday, December 29th, 2011

This is my second product test on Free Product Road Testing program by Farnell. This time the tested product is fused test leads for multimeter (Farnell Number: 428-4276).

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Why Fused Leads?

You might ask why test leads need be fused. Trust me there are situations where this is a really good idea. Maintenance of electrical and electronic equipment exposes the technician to potentially lethal voltages and short circuit current. Multimeter have fuses inside them, but those fuses do not always provide enough protection. Stock Multimeter Explosion video illustrates what happens when the fuse inside multimeter is not enough protection. This failure takes place in milliseconds and leaves very little time to react to the mistake as you can see in the picture below (image capture from Stock Multimeter Explosion video).

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If you plug the leads in the wrong spot or have the wrong settings this is what can happen. It all depends on the interrupting capacity of the fuse on the meter. Very many multimeters have cheap fuses that can’t interrupt high current fault. Most commonly used 5×20mm glass fuses often seen in cheap multimeters have a low breaking capacity which generally restricts them to applications of 15 A or less at 250 VAC (Bussman fuse specifications say interrupting rating 35A at 250V for 32mA – 3.15A fuses). Ceramic fuses have the advantage of a higher breaking capacity due sand fill inside fuse body, but they cost considerably more than basic fuses. Not all fuses of the same amperage and voltage rating are the same! Unless a meter was specifically designed to meet CAT III-600 V or higher, it is not safe to use on power circuits.

Fused probes provide an additional level of measurement protection when making voltage or current measurements. It is safest is to use fused probes that have fuses with high enough interrupting capacity. Excessive current drawn through test probes, leads and measuring instruments can happens when a multimeter is set to the wrong function, eg. set on a current or resistance range when you should measuring voltage. circuit. But luck is not much to count on, especially when you could avoid the problem altogether by using the proper fuse.

The short circuit currents on electrical systems can he huge. If you take a CAT III 1000 V meter with the test leads in the amps jacks, you will have a series resistance of approximately 0.1 ohms between the leads. If you accidentally place the leads across an ideal 1000 volt source, you will generate a current of 10,000 amps. In real life electrical systems the electrical distribution network impedance will limit the current to somewhat lower but still huge (short circuit current easily 20-100 times higher than normal current on the circuit). This huge current can cause serious damage including multimeter explosion and test leads start to melt in very short time. When you can’t count on the multimeter to have the proper fuse, the best idea it to get fused probes that for sure have proper fuses in them. When you make that simple mistake of putting voltage across the current jacks and blow the fuse, you’re at first thankful you didn’t wipe out the meter or get hurt.

ESA commissioned a series of tests to simulate the impact of using fused leads as a protective measure. Fused leads used with multimeters prevented possible catastrophic results when the meter was used in an inappropriate way or experienced an internal failure. Fused leads worked as a safety mechanism in 90% of simulated tests. Eventually everyone tries to measure volts with the amperage setting. With a good fused multimeter probes (and other necessary safety accessories) you won’t do any serious damage. Adding to the user error problem is wear, tear and contamination within the meter that creates internal component failures or compromises the components’ dielectric properties. Multimeter Accident Prevention Plan, An Electrical Inspector’s Survival Guide article tells how people working with electricity are getting hurt using multimeters and how to eliminate or limit the risk.

British HSE guidance GS 38 (mentioned on fused probe documentation) and Canadian Electrical Safety Authority (ESA) drive to adopt fused test leads as an added safety measure for those doing electrical testing with multimeters. It is necessary to use leads which incorporate high breaking capacity (hbc) fuses that nadequately rated to deal with short circuit energy present on electrical power systems. Also batteries can cause a high energy flashover when short circuited, so fused leads are also good idea when working with large battery systems.

In addition to fusing you need to consider other design design features of the probes. The standard multimeter leads typically have an excessive length (usually around 15-19 mm) of bare metal at the contact end. This kind if probes can accidentally too easily bridge a live conductor and adjacent earthed metalwork with disastrous consequences like arch flash on high energy circuits. So keep the normal multimeter probes away from such circuits.

Finnish electrical safety document STO 2/2009 says that for voltage measurements the voltage meter probes should have maximum 10 mm of exposed metal on the tip. GS 38 electrical safety booklet from HSE (UK) says that exposed metal tip on suitable should not exceeding 4 mm measured across any surface of the tip (recommended 2 mm or spring loaded retractable screened probes). EN/IEC61010-031 regulation (came into effect on March first 2011) says that test probe bare metal tip length is limited to a maximum of 4mm in measurement categories CAT III and CAT IV, and 19mm in measurement category CAT II (USA knows this as UL 61010-031).

Tested probe details

The SILVERTRONIC – 131247 – TEST LEAD SET product is a red and black fused lead assembly made up of double insulated silicone cable incorporating a fused probe assembly with a short fixed tip. The multimeter end is terminated with 4mm right angled fixed shrouded plug to reduce inadvertent hand or finger contact with any live test socket.

probe1

The product came in a simple plastic bag. A professional product does not need any fancy package.

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The bag contained the test probes and one paper that tells the most important product technical details (some more details can be found from Technical Data Sheet).

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SILVERTRONIC – 131247 – TEST LEAD SET is rated 1000V CAT III IEC61010. Each probe is fitted with a 500 mA/1000V/50kA fast acting ceramic fuse as standard. The probe documentation paper says that “lead set have built-in fuses for additional measurement protection” and the probes are fully compliant with GS38.

Fuse provides protection with a current limiting capability and and very high interrupting rating. The tested probes have suitable high breaking capacity (50kA) very fast acting (FF) fuses with low current rating (500 mA) housed in the probes themselves.

probe4

“Interrupt rating” (“breaking capacity”) refers to the maximum amount of instantaneous current that can be interrupted safely without explosion or damage. This interruption of current flow can occur in fault or short circuit conditions. Interrupting rating of fuses and breakers not be less than the maximum available short circuit current at their point-of-application.

probefuse

The 50kA interrupt rating is enough for very many electrical power applications. For example typical circuit breakers on home electrical panels have 5-6kA interrupt ratings and the short circuit currents considerable less than that. Typical fault currents in industrial applications can be well over 10,000 amps. The high interrupt capacity of the probes lies in hands of the supplied high breaking capacity 1kV 500mA 50kA fuses. If you happen to burn those fuses, use proper fuse replacements (do not try to put a “normal” 6.3×32 mm fuse there).

probetips

The bare tips on the supplied probes are short (around 2.5 mm) for a good reason. The 2.5 mm bare tip is well below that 4 mm GS 38 recommendation and shaped so that is pretty hard to make accidental short circuits with it. The probes being tested have good finger barriers guard against inadvertent hand contact with the live conductors under test. The probes feel good on the hand. Their handle are slightly thicker than in normal multimeter probes, which is not a bad thing at all. Otherwise they feel and measure pretty much the same as “normal” multimeter probes, they are just thicker.

The probe cables are insulated with silicon insulator and fulfill the double insulation requirements. The cable is very flexible which is very good thing (more flexible than cable on many “standard” multimeter probes).

One practical note that I found out then testing the probes is that the fuses inside the probes have some resistance in them. I found out that the multimeter resistance range showed 2.5 ohm loop resistance with the fused probes (versus zero ohms for original multimeter probes). If you plan to make resistance measurements with those probes, take this into account. The series resistance does not have any measurable effect on the voltage measurements.

The probes I tested seem to be good for what they are intended for. The price (29,68 €) seem to be reasonable because other similar probes seem to be cost at least the same or considerably mode (many other cost easily around 100 US dollars).

EDN Hot 100 products of 2011

Monday, December 12th, 2011

EDN Hot 100 products of 2011 article list of the Hot 100 products that in 2011 grabbed the attention of EDN magazine editors and our readers. Browse this year’s Hot 100 products in their respective categories. You can click on any product name to read the original full EDN article. If you do anything related to electronics product design, browse this list and look the the details of the most interesting products.

3D TV production technology from Panasonic

Monday, December 5th, 2011

I visited AudioVisual 2011 trade show briefly on 13. November 2011. The most interesting stuff I saw there was a presentation on shooting 3D video with Panasonic equipment. The presentation was given by Juha Lindqvist from Kaukomarkkinat. I originally planned to write an article on 3D video technology for Prosessori magazine, but because Prosessori magazine publication ended I have no reason to hold this material for a longer time.

Here are some notes I made from the presentation now presentation that I found interesting (have been interested in 3D technologies for long time and I have TV production experience from AssemblyTV).

Panasonic has been for several years been very active on live 3D TV productions. They provided the technology for 3D shooting of 2009 French Tennis Open. The entire 2011 French Tennis Open, Roland Garros, was broadcast live in 3D to over 17 countries across Europe. And several other events.

Panasonic has nowadays two main 3D TV camera models: AG-3DP1 and AG-3DA1. AG-3DA1 was the first integrated twin-lens full HD 3D camera recorder on the market. The AG-3DP1 is a newer P2HD Series integrated twin-lens 3D camera recorder. They are nowadays the main tools for 3D TV production. In addition to this also a side-by-side rig with two AK-HC1800 are used to shoot 3D TV material.

In 3D TV production setup each 3D camera has two HDSDI outputs: one for HD picture for left eye and other for HD picture for right eye. Those video signals go to 3D video capable video mixer that is used in the same way as normal TV production video mixer. At the moment AG-HMX1000 mixer (2/4 cameras) and AV-HS450 (16 ch 2D upgradeable to 9 ch 3D mixer). The monitoring of the 3D video is done on 3D capable LCD monitors and 3D glasses (shutter technology).

3d_london

I earlier wrote that BBC plans to use 3D on London Olympics at summer 2012. The presentation gave some details on the actual 3D TV production hardware that is planned to be used on London Olympics. Panasonic has been for a long time been the company that has provided to TV broadcasting cameras and related equipment for Olympics for a long time. So practically all TV camera gear (2D and 3D) will be from them. The main 3D camera models to be used on London 2012 will be AG-3DA1 and AG-3DP1 (also two AK-HC1800 rig may be used). The video mixers will be AG-HMX1000 and AV-HS450. The 3D video monitoring will be done with BT-3DL2550 monitors.

3d_obvan

HackerThings

Friday, October 14th, 2011

HackerThings web site is a list of products programmers and hardware hackers would want to own. HackerThings tries to aggregate the coolest products for the extremely tech-minded individual and discerning hacker. Products are posted to HackerThings on a purely is-this-awesome basis. Updates are posted daily. This is an interesting service to follow.

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Replacing fluorescent lamp with LED

Saturday, October 8th, 2011

The idea if replacing fluorescent light bulbs with LEDs seems to become popular. There are different kind of products made for that purpose, some are good and some not so good. So I felt it was now good time to test this technology.

LED technology promises to reduce power consumption about 50% of fluorescent bulbs and your replacement period becomes 10+ years. Good promises if those hold true. Modern LED tubes are designed so that they can be just plugged in place of original fluorescent lamp

I have read that a plenty of low quality LED tubes hit the market, some that do not hold their promises and some even potentially dangerous. I think that it is now right time test this myself. My intention on the test was to see how see the LED tube replacement technology nowadays it and get rid of the lamp flickering (tube flickers when you turn on light). The possibility to energy was a secondary option because I live in Finland (cold climate) and the heating the house uses electrical heating, meaning that I would really get energy saving on some summer months when the main heating is not used.

The lamp where I wanted to replace the bulb was in toilet. The first task was to check the power of the original tube and the socket type it used. For socket type identification Light Guide: Compact Fluorescent Lamp Identification was an useful document. The original tube turned to be 18W tube with G24 base.

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The replacement bulb I used was G24 13W 52-5050 SMD LED Warm White Light Lamp Bulb (85~265V) ($20.30) from Dealextreme.

sku_50169_1_small

Lamp specifications:
- Ultra bright high intensity 52-5050 SMD LED warm white light bulb
- Quality aluminum shell
- Power: 13W
- Voltage: 85~265V
- Color: Warm white
- Connector: G24

What I was first is that this bulb does have bare SMD LEDs that you can see on the front. There is no protective glass/plastic over them. The wiring to LEDs is visible, which seems to be a little bit frightening knowing that those wires can have mains voltage on them (unless the LED power supply is isolated which I quess it not). While bare wiring looks somewhat frightening, the product does not look to dangerous because you can’t in any easy way touch those wires. The LEDs are put so near each other that you can’t touch those wires with your fingers. And in addition to that this bulb will go to the lamp in the ceiling that has a protective cover on this. So electrical safety seems to be OK here.

The bulb worked well when just plugged on the place of the original bulb. No problems worked nicely. This worked well, and no more annoying flashing when light is turned on (fluorescent flashes few time before goes on, this one starts immediately). This bulb gives out equivalent amount of light as the original 18W bulb (looked the same and gave same lux reading with lux-meter on the front).

I did the light measurements with Mastech MS8209 multimeter with lux range front of bulb 50 cm distance from the lamp on the ceiling. When installed inside the lamp, the reading with original 18W bulb was 560 lux and with 13W LED that was 565 lux. The LED bulb itself gave 800-900 lux from 50 cm distance when measured outside the lamp (no ceiling lamp from glass between the LED source and meter).

The light distribution was a little bit different with the original tube and this new replacement, but not too different to cause problems on the application.

The end results is that G24 13W 52-5050 SMD LED Warm White Light Lamp Bulb (85~265V) is cheap and well working LED replacement for G24 fluorescent bulb. Installation is easy, just plug into place. Works as promised.

Arduino Goes ARM

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

The whole world seems to be going in ARM’s direction. ARM has practically taken the mobile phone and tablet markets. The latest version of Windows 8 will also run on ARM processors, Raspberry Pi is a $25 ARM based machine etc..

Slashdot tells that now the open source Arduino platform has a new member — the ARM-based Arduino Due announced at the Maker Faire in New York.

Due-300x300

The Due makes use of Atmel’s SAM3U ARM-based processor, which supports 32-bit Cortex-M3 ARM instructions. The SAM3U processor from ATMEL is running at 96MHz with 256Kb of Flash, 50Kb of Sram, 5 SPI buses, 2 I2C interfaces, 5 UARTS, 16 Analog Inputs at 12Bit resolution and much more. This is much more powerful than the current Uno or Mega.

Unfortunately the 3.3V operating voltage and the different I/O ports are going to create some compatibility problems. Arduino boards have been traditionally with 5V I/O, although 3.3V seems to become more and more popular. Adafruit has a tutorial on converting Arduino Unos over to 3.3v, from 5v. It’s becoming popular. The usefulness of 5V is diminishing.

I don’t see this new Due board as a direct replacement for the 8-bit ATmega based Arduinos, but more as a step up up for those looking for more processing power. A port to ARM for the user friendly Arduino toolkit had been long talked, but this is an official ARM-Arduino board with official support in the arduino toolchain.

To connect this board to Internet you will need to have some additional hardware, because Due does not have any built-in network interface. For Arduino use there has been long time Ethernet Shields (different models) and now also official Arduino Wifi Shield.

CircuitBee

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Have you ever designed an electronic schematic then wanted to share it on your blog? Or wanted help improving your circuit on a forum? Ever peered at a tiny/massive image of a circuit on a website and wondered why on earth there wasn’t a better alternative? I have done that quite often.

CircuitBee is a new online platform that promises to allow you to share live versions of your circuit schematics on your websites, blogs or forums.

circuitbee

CircuitBee tries to be like YouTube or Scribd for your circuit schematics. CircuitBee hopes to grow into the most useful service for hobby electronics enthusiasts, so the service creators are going to keep the service free for as long as they can.

The idea is that you upload your schematics, and the service crunches the numbers and creates an online embeddable version of your schematic. It promises to be better than blurry screenshot or a giant PDF. CircuitBee features include full zooming capability, panning, and even mouse over tips about symbols in the schematic.

You embed the circuit diagram to your web page using iframe. The technology behind showing circuits seems to be based on modern HTML5 technologies: canvas + JavaScript.

CircuitBee currently supports most schematic files saved from KiCad. You can import Eagle schematics into CircuitBee by first converting them to KiCad format using a ULP script.

I am just waiting for time to get used to the KiCad for drawing the circuit diagrams. KiCad seems to be a promising free open source electronics design software, but there is some leaning curve before I can draw nice circuits with it. When I get something nice drawn with it, it will try to publish it here with CircuitBee. After that I can tell how it went.

Ruggeduino

Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011

There are many Arduino-compatible microcontroller boards nowadays. The Ruggeduino is a ruggedized Arduino-compatible microcontroller board. Features include overcurrent and overvoltage protection on all I/O pins and 5V/3.3V outputs, ESD protection on all I/O pins and USB port, total microcontroller overcurrent protection, and operation at up to 24V.

There are some things a regular Arduino will tolerate; other actions will destroy it immediately. The Ruggeduino designers took all the common mistakes that people make with their Arduinos and designed the Ruggeduino to protect against them. The Ruggeduino web page has lots of technical details how the protection is implemented.

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I have not personal experience in this The Ruggeduino product, but looks interesting. And the technical details how protection is implemented could be useful in some other application some day.

Arduino UNO review

Monday, August 8th, 2011

I have participated in Free Product Road Testing program by Farnell. Farnell indentified my blog to road test some of their products. I was willing to participate, because what’s more fun than free high tech products to test. The first product i got was Arduino UNO.

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Arduino Uno is a a microcontroller board based on the ATmega328. It has 14 digital input/output pins (of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs), 6 analog inputs, a 16 MHz crystal oscillator, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header, and a reset button. Something I am already used to see on Arduino boards. And looks what I expect from Arduino board.

The Uno is the latest in a series of USB Arduino boards, and the reference model for the Arduino platform. The Uno differs from all preceding Arduino boards with USB connection in that it does not use the FTDI USB-to-serial driver chip (like Arduino Dueminanove board I already own).

An ATmega8U2 on the board channels serial communication from ATmega328 main CPU UART (digital pins 0 and 1) over USB and appears as a virtual com port to software on the computer. Arduino Uno USB connection is designed operate in exactly the same way as a Duemilanove and maintain perfect backward compatibility with the previous model. The new Arduino Uno: what are the implications? article tells that having ATmega8U2 on the board for USB connection also means the Uno can do new things that are a problem for previous Arduino boards.

Having a dedicated ATmega8U2 to take care of the connection allows the Arduino to provide both traditional USB-serial and HID support on the same port, depending on the firmware running in the 8U2. Interesting side-note: Tiny ATmega8U2 used for the Uno USB connection is pretty much the same as the MCU used on the very first Arduino, but with hardware USB support baked in. The ATmega8U2 chip sits on the board next to he USB connector.

ArduinoUnoFront240

I only played with traditional USB-serial connection on my tests. The ‘8U2 firmware is designed to use the standard USB COM drivers, and no external driver should be needed. So in theory using should be easy. I was waiting for a painless installation. However, on Windows, things too often just don’t work “plug&play”. The problem lies in fact that Arduino Uno is being issued its own USB vendor ID, and Windows (Vista in my case) does not know about it. To make the board to work correctly on Windows the installation of ArduinoUNO.inf file from open-source Arduino environment driver directory is needed. There are some manual installation tricks that needs to be done to get things to work, but fortunately Getting Started w/ Arduino on Windows document gives the needed instructions. I was expecting to get easier installation than with previous board, but this “no driver needed” driver installation process is actually somewhat harder than driver installation for older Arduino boards. Anyway when it is once done things run smoothly.

The Arduino Uno can be powered via the USB connection or with an external power supply. I used USB power on my first tests. The Arduino Uno has a resettable polyfuse that protects your computer’s USB ports from shorts and overcurrent (mistakes can happen when you prototype and play with electronics ideas). That’s a good idea although most computers provide their own internal protection (I think USB specs ask for that). In any case the on-board fuse provides an extra layer of protection.

After some testing with Arduino environment version 2.2 I got things to work. I needed to select right serial port and right board type.

First test was to upload StandardFirmata to the board and control the Arduino UNO board with toolduino.

toolduino_uno

My opinion overall is that the Uno is a very nice board. It maintains backward compatibility while adding the potential for interesting new functionality. This is a great board for prototyping and all kinds of microcontroller hacks.

If you want to buy Arduino UNO you can get it from Farnell. Their list price seems to be 24,35 € without taxes.


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