Many of the LED power supplies such as those by Mean Well, etc., offer three modes of control: output constant current level can be adjusted through the control input by connecting a resistance or 0 ~ 10Vdc or 10V PWM signal between DIM+ and DIM-.

If the PSU is able to sense a resistance connected to the input then it must be supplying a current to the input terminals as shown by the constant current source. On the units I am familiar with 100 kΩ gives full brightness so that means the voltage drop across the 100 kΩ is 10 V and I = V/R = 10/100k = 0.1 mA. This theory is supported by the fact that if you use one pot to control multiple fittings that the required pot value is 100/n where n is the number of lamps. This makes sense as each PSU will drive 0.1 mA into the pot. So for five lamps in parallel on the one pot R = V/I = 10/0.5m = 2 kΩ. (Your system is using a 0.5 mA source so adjust R values accordingly.)
Finally, if nothing is connected the 0.1 mA will charge C1 to 10 V and give 100% brightness.

https://www.sunricher.com/media/resources/manual/SR-2205-v2%20instruction.pdf

Tested Controller Circuit For 0-10V Dimmable Drivers

5.1 – 0-10V Dimming Controller

Given that 0-10V dimming is now quite popular and is being used in many installations, one would have hoped that schematics for simple controllers would be easy to find. Unfortunately (and not for the first time) this is not the case. Not only are circuit diagrams for the controllers themselves absent from the Web, but even the physical controllers are not easy to find. In some cases you will find what you’re looking for, but I’ve seen what appear to be exceptionally simple controllers on-line for well over AU$100, which is far, far greater than their value. Meanwhile, others (which appear to do exactly the same thing) sell for not much over AU$17 or so. The sellers provide next to no information about how they are to be used, so it’s hard for people to know what they are getting.

The circuit shown above is a simple passive (it needs no power supply) controller, which will work with any LED power supply that provides more than 200µA for the dimmer. It will function with lower current, but the dimming range becomes rather non-linear. This isn’t a precision circuit, and it may be more or less complex than commercial versions.

The dimmer controller would normally be mounted on a standard wall-plate, along with the on/off switch for the controlled lights. Note that a separate wiring run is needed for the 0-10V dimming connections, but this ‘daisy chains’ from one fitting to the next. The maximum current for the controller shown is around 25mA (half the maximum current shown above), and Q2 will run warm at that current. There should be no more than 25 separate fittings connected to a single dimmer controller, or the number of fittings that amount to 25mA current, whichever is the lower number. For example, if the LED drivers output 2mA (the maximum recommended), then no more than 12 fittings should be on a single dimmer circuit.

At the time of writing, this is the only schematic on the Net for a passive 0-10V current-sinking dimmer controller. It may or may not follow industry practice, but it works very well. It’s been tested with a dimmable LED highbay, the only 0-10V dimmable fitting I had to hand when the circuit was developed. I expect that it will perform equivalently with any standardised equipment. While it does work at the lowest current suggested in the standard (10µA), it really needs at least 100µA to function properly. (It is doubtful that many commercial products would use a 10µA sense current because it’s too low, the overall impedance is too high and noise may become a problem.)

So, if you want to have dimmable LED lamps, feel free to experiment.

In fact, you must experiment, because the results are almost always unpredictable!

Even when you find a combination that works well, don’t expect the same dimming range or stability that you had with incandescent lamps, because you probably won’t get it. You might be lucky, but a seemingly infinite number of sites on the Net telling you of the problems encountered doesn’t bode well. This really is a case of buyer beware – the lights are usually very good (from reputable manufacturers at least), but dimming is another matter entirely. 0-10V standardisation is very much a step in the right direction, but only for fixed installations.

Ultimately, the best approach (and the one that will endure) is to use complete fixtures/ luminaires and forget the silly idea of replaceable globes. If you need dimming, choose a product that includes a 0-10V interface, but you will have get an electrician to install the extra wiring needed for the dimmer unit itself.