Remember Duracell’s PowerCheck? The idea was that a strip built into the battery would show if the battery was good or not. Sure, you could always get a meter or a dedicated battery tester — but PowerCheck put the tester right in the battery. [Technology Connections] has an interesting video on how these worked and why you don’t see them today. You can see it below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsA3X40nz9w

The stuff that leaks out is potassium hydroxide – an alkaline compound. Over time, the potassium hydroxide absorbs CO² from the air and forms potassium carbonate, an even more corrosive alkaline compound. To neutralize it, you need an acid. So, neutralize it with something acidic – like vinegar – then clean up the mess and shine up the contacts. If you don’t neutralize it, it’ll continue to eat up the metal, even though it looks clean.

https://paleblueearth.com/blogs/news/why-alkaline-batteries-are-prone-to-leaking

https://www.bebat.be/en/blog/leaking-batteries

Those are alkaline batteries. Try white vinegar on the corrosion. Try to keep it away from the circuit board unless there is corrosion on it too.

Clean it with water, or vinegar as someone pointed out. Takes a bit to dissolve it etc but water is the solvent base for this alkali. If you can, open the remote to check if the leak got elsewhere. It’s okay to wash a remote circuit board and everything in water as long as it’s clean and dry before reassembly and powered up.

A mild acid like white vinegar is better for neutralizing alkaline battery corrosion followed by an alcohol wipe.

..i have…many times, bot just duracell/duraleak, all alkalines can do it since they took a mercury compound out of the mix

Diet Soda or diet pop cleans better but neutralize with water mixed with baking soda. Diet is used because no sticky residue. And harbor freight lightning batteries are better than Duracell

Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectronicParts/permalink/2249218821934107/