This post is about European mains power. Electricity in EU countries conforms to the European standard, coming out of the wall socket at 230 volts alternating at 50 cycles per second. While the voltage and frequency are fixed, the mains connectors and wiring practices can vary between different countries in Europe.
One thing to note on European power outlets is this: In most European countries mains outlets are not polarized, and you can put the plug in both ways, so you almost never know which wire is live and which is neutral. Typically, Europeans do not maintain consistent identification of line and neutral throughout their power system as is the practice in North America. Consistent with this practice, the Continental European plug can be rotated to either of two positions and plugged into the socket. Thus, the common electrical system in Europe is unpolarized (i.e., line and neutral are connected at random). In fact, most plug types used in Europe are not polarized. The ungrounded plugs have been non polarized, grounded outlets are either polarized or non polarized depending on country.
History of European 230V power
Europe’s power grid, the world’s most interconnected, is set at 230 volts (an EU standard since 2008). Before that the voltage standard had been 220V (most countries) or 240V (UK and Ireland).
It was the Germans who introduced 220V AC power in Europe over 100 years ago. It was around 1893 when the AC frequencies were standardized at 60Hz (US) and 50Hz (Europe). At that time there were some systems that used 120V and also 220V systems. Europe had developed its 220-volt (now 230-volt) system after learning from the American experience, and before any massive infrastructure changes would be required. Cost was the main reason Europe went with 220 volts (now 230): higher voltages allow the use of thinner wire, meaning less copper in the early days of power lines. Power companies could save money on wire by using 220 volts rather than 110. This became the model for electrical distribution in Germany and the rest of Europe and the 220-volt system (later 230-volt) soon became the European norm.
Single phase power in Europe The nominal European voltage is now 230V 50 Hz (formerly 240V in UK, 220V in the rest of Europe). European mains voltage is presently specified as being 230 V+10%/−6% (253-217V) specification will broaden to 230 V±10%, requiring electrical goods to operate correctly on a supply anywhere between 207 and 253 V. The “harmonised voltage limits” in Europe are now: 230V -10% +6% (i.e. 207.0 – 243.8V) in most of Europe (the former 220V nominal countries) 230V -6% +10% (i.e. 216.2 – 253.0V) in UK (former 240V nominal) his is really a fudge and means there is no real change of supply voltage, only a change in the “label”, with no incentive for electricity supply companies to actually change the supply voltage. To cope with both sets of limits an equipment will therefore need to cover 230V +/-10% i.e. 207-253V.
Outlet wiring
Modern European 230V (50Hz) supply feeding the mains outlet consists of 3 wires that are typically: hot, neutral, and safety ground. The 230V (50Hz) is obtained between the hot and neutral lead. The current available from the outlet depends on the maximum current rating of the breaker in mains panel that is normally 10A or 16A (in UK there are maximum 13A fuse inside mains plug). Older building can have older outlets that do not offer grounding on “safe” locations (normal rooms) and grounded outlets on “dangerous” locations (like outdoors, washing room, kitchen).
There modern colors used in house wiring in Europe are based on IEC standard: GREEN with YELLOW stripes is Ground, BLUE is Neutral, and BROWN is Live. The typical wire thickness (for live, neutral and ground) is either 1.5 mm2 (for 10A circuits) and 2.5 mm2 (for 16A circuits). The extension cords typically are built using 1.5 mm2 cable. The cables feeding equipment are typically use 1.5 mm2, 1 mm2 or 0.75 mm2 wires depending on the power equipment uses.
There is not usually hard guarantees which hole on the outlet is neutral and with is live. The hot and neutral wires are interchangeable as far as the equipment is concerned (be warned that there are some exceptions in some countries). Both are power carrying wires. In many parts of Europe (nordic counties, Germany etc), the normal 3-wire receptacle is symmetrical so that the neutral and hot wire connections can be swapped by simply rotating the plug.
There is not even guarantees that one of the side is neutral, because it is possible that in some locations both the mains outlet power carrying contacts can be “live” with 230V between them. On some countries (for example some locations in Norway and some old installations on some other countries) both current carrying wires on outlet can be “live”. In hospitals the mains outlet designed to be used for medical equipment could be powered from safety isolation transformer, so neither side is “neutral”.
In most parts of Europe the mains wiring is is wired as radial system, which means that there is a straight wire that comes from the mains panel to the fixed load or mains outlet. There can be one or more than one outlet connected to the same wire. That wiring is protected with with a breaker or fuse (typically rated for 10A or 16A depending on how much current is needed and how thick wires are installed). In modern installations there is normally a 10A or 16A breaker on the mains panel that disconnects the live wire when there is short circuit or overload and neutral side is not protects. In addition in modern installations there is usually also a ground fault protector that protects one outlet or a group of outlets. In locations where both sides of mains outlet are live, two pole breakers are used (disconnect both wires going to outlet if there is overload or short circuit). UK is a special case because there residential installations use Ring circuit wiring where the mains plugs have a built-in fuse.
Mains plugs
The standard, Class I grounded mains, plugs used in Germany, Austria, the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Russia are the CEE 7/4 and CEE 7/7 plugs. Because this standard is used so commonly throughout Europe, we refer to it as the “Continental European” standard. Both styles have two 4.8mm round contacts on 19mm centers. s the “Continental European” standard. Both styles have two 4.8mm round contacts on 19mm centers. Grounding is achieved through the grounding clips on the sides of the plug body.
SCHUKO plug
German (type F, CEE 7/3 socket, CEE 7/4 plug, Schuko) is the most common mains power socket in Europe. The most common socket in Europe is the Schuko (Schutzkontakt is German for ‘Protective contact’). The plug has two pins, and along with the socket can be identified by the two metal earth contacts on each side. Schuko is a standard used primarily in Germany and Austria, Finland, Sweden, Norway and several other countries.
The SCHUKO is rated at 230v 16A, and has two 4.8mm x 19mm pins. The metal contacts at top and bottom of the outlet are the “Schutzkontakte”, i.e. earth. Because the plug is symmetrical, there is no way to know which line is hot and which is neutral for a device. Only earth is always the same.
A typical SCHUKO outlet has three electrical connections, which are the “hot”, “neutral”, and “grounding” wires. The hot and neutral wires are interchangeable as far as the equipment is concerned. The normal SCHUKO 3-wire receptacle is symmetrical so that the neutral and hot wire connections can be swapped by simply rotating the plug. SCHUKO plug can be connected either way around, and there is no strong convention as to whether sockets have the live wired to the left or right side of the receptacle.
The Schuko system originated in Germany. It is believed to date from 1925 and is attributed to Albert Büttner, a Bavarian manufacturer of electrical accessories At this time Germany used a 220 V centre tap giving 127 V from current pins to earth, which meant that fuse links were required in both sides of the appliance and double pole switches. Variations of the original Schuko plug are used today in more than 40 countries, including most of Continental Europe.
Why it is not important where we connect our hot and neutral wire when connecting them to our Schuko plug? Is it because current flows in both directions and equipment are designed to cope it. This inherently stupid sounding power plug design from 1925 that is safe enough when certain limitations are met. While obviously not ideal, this symmetry is not a big problem so long as all appliances are built in such a way as to be still safe when the two main wires are swapped. As almost everything is being produced for a global market today, in practice this is always the case – or at least manufacturers always claim and usually provide it. It is UTTERLY ESSENTIAL that anything it is used with may be safely used with phase and neutral in either of the two possible arrangements.
The SCHUKO connector is pretty safe design. Overall though, there aren’t millions of people being electrocuted by Schuko. In fact, it’s generally one of the lowest risks out there because the plug is pretty well designed to be be safe. SCHUKO plug used in some of the most conservative and safety conscious regulatory environments, such as the Nordic region. So, it’s hardly a major risk or concern.
When you insert SCHUKO plug into the socket, the earth connector makes contact first and then the live prongs. By the time an electrical connection is made, there is almost no gap left between the socket and the plug, no room for an inquisitive toddler to put his fingers or other conductive objects. There are also safety shuttered outlets, where the shutters on SCHUKO sockets have to be pressed simultaneously in order to push them aside. Pushing only one will not make it slide away.
Schuko plugs are required for devices with metal cases, the case needs to be connected to earth ground in several places, so any electrical fault would connect line to earth or neutral to earth. SCHUKO sockets also accept non-grounded EURO plugs that are used on “dual insulated” equipment that are designed to be safe to be operated without ground.
SCHUKO design is very safe for users to use. When inserted into the socket, the Schuko plug covers the socket cavity (1) and establishes protective-earth connection through the earth clips (2) before the line and neutral pins (3) establish contact, thereby preventing users from touching connected pins. A pair of non-conductive guiding notches (4) on the left and right side provides extra stability, enabling the safe use of large and heavy plugs (e.g. with built-in transformers or timers).
Some countries, including Portugal, Finland, Denmark, Norway and Sweden, require child-proof socket shutters; the German DIN 49440-1:2006-01 standard does not have this requirement.
FRANCE plug
The second most common socket is the French type, which like the Schuko is rated at 230v 16A, and has two 4.8mm x 19mm pins. France, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Poland use the CEE 7/6 plug and CEE 7/5 socket with the same size and spacing of the main pins as SCHUKO but with a male protective-earth pin on the socket instead of the earth clips, and without the guiding notches at the sides. The earth connection is made by an earth pin which protrudes from the socket, and engages with a hole in the plug.
The protruding earth pin means that the plug can only be inserted one way around, but the major issue is that until 2002, there was no convention as to whether sockets had the live wired to the left or right receptacle You therefore have a 50:50 chance of it being wired “the correct way” and unlike with the Schuko socket, you cannot rotate the plug 180 degrees.
In order to bridge the differences between German and French standards, the CEE 7/7 plug was developed. It has a hole to accept the earth pin on a French socket, and side strips to connect to the earth clips on the side of German sockets. Most modern moulded Schuko plugs, and good-quality rewirable replacements, are a hybrid version (“CEE 7/7″) with an aperture that accommodates the earth pin of CEE 7/5 sockets.
Other outlet types
Denmark and Greenland use their own 16A socket. The socket looks quite similar to a Schuko/French socket, but the grounding is different than in those (third pin on socket). Denmark also supports using French sockets and Schuko sockets.
Historically Italy has had its own specific three pin plug and socket, available in 10A and 16A versions. Many modern sockets will accept both 10A and 16A plugs. Many buildings now have the Bipasso/Schuko socket, which can be used with both Italian and Schuko plugs. Also Switzerland and Liechtenstein use their own specific three socket, available in 10A and 16A versions. Britain has it’s own set of mains outlets that are different from ones used in continental Europe.
Europlug
The Europlug is a flat, two-pole, round-pin domestic AC power plug, rated for voltages up to 250 V and currents up to 2.5 A. It is a compromise design intended to connect low-power Class II appliances safely to the many different forms of round-pin domestic power socket used across Europe. It is compatible with SCHUKO, France type outlet and several other outlet types in use in Europe (except UK outlets).
The Europlug design, intended for use with socket-outlets meeting other standards, appeared first in 1963 as Alternative II of Standard Sheet XVI in the second edition of CEE Publication 7 by the contributing members. The Europlug is therefore sometimes also referred to as the “CEE 7/16 Alternative II plug” or simply as the “CEE 7/16 plug”.
It is a small size plug that allows compact power cables and mobile phone changers. Europlugs are only designed for low-power (less than 2.5 A) Class II (double-insulated) devices that operate at normal room temperature and do not require a protective-earth connection. The Europlug is designed to be compatible with mains socket types C, E, F, and K (all have 4.8 mm holes with centres spaced 19 mm apart).The Europlug is not designed to be compatible with mains sockets used in UK.
The dimensions of the Europlug were chosen for compatibility and safe use, such that with continental European domestic power sockets. The plug is designed so that a reliable contact is established when the plug is fully inserted and no live conductive parts are accessible while the plug is inserted into each type of socket: it is not possible to establish a connection between one pin and a live socket contact while the other pin is accessible.
Europlugs are designed to be non-rewirable and must be supplied attached to a power cord. Europlugs are designed to be used with ‘double-insulated’ or ‘all-insulated’ apparatus is made which does not require earthing. Double insulation means what its name says, and all live conductors are separated from the outside world by two separate and distinctive layers of insulation. Each layer of insulation would adequately insulate the conductor on its own, but together they virtually negate the probability of danger arising from insulation failure. Typically the double insulated devices are built into insulating plastic case, but in some case also metal case is possible (for example on amplifiers, CD/DVD players and VCRs). Double insulation avoids the requirement for any external metalwork of the equipment to be protected by an earth conductor.
Three phase power
In northern and central Europe, residential electrical supply is commonly supplied with 400 V three-phase electric power, which gives 400V between phases and 230 V between any single phase and neutral. This three phase power system is called THREE-PHASE STAR; FOUR-WIRE; EARTHED NEUTRAL system. Electric power distribution throughout Finland and many parts of Europe is made by 230/400Vac, 3 phase, four wire, Multiple Earth Neutral (MEN). Typically one or three phases are brought into the customer’s premises depending on the maximum demand. Three phase power is normally available in at least Finland, Sweden and Germany being used for ovens, electric stoves, large motors and dryers. Three phase power is also typically available in places where large sound and light systems are used (around stages etc.) and in construction sites. Three phase outlets typically use industrial CEE FORM connectors for three phase temporary power output (typically 3x16A or 3x32A).
When three phase power is used (for example in industrial applications, construction sites and concert AV systems) the most common connector type is five pin CEEFORM connector.
Safety issues on lamps sockets
Edison screw (ES) is a standard lightbulb socket for electric light bulbs. It was developed by Thomas Edison, patented in 1881. Edison screw has been the most commonly used light bulb socket for general lighting for very long time. In Europe the most commonly used Edison light bulb socket sizes are E27 (ES) and E14 (Small ES, SES) with right-hand threads.
For bulbs powered by AC current, the thread is generally connected to neutral and the contact on the bottom tip of the base is connected to the “live” phase. This works for fixed installed lights, but for lamps that are plugged in to the mains outlets, you don’t know which wire going to socket will be live or neutral. Or this reason a “safer Edison” light bulb socket has been developed and is commonly used. That socket has contacts on the bottom and not connected to scree threads (that can be made of metal or plastic). Having the contacts on the bottom of the socket makes the light socket safer to handle when changing the light bulb.
The bulb starts to makes contact with live and neutral contacts on the socket bottom only when it is screwed pretty much full into the socket. The bulb is screwed in at the time so much that the user can’t anymore tough the metal threads of the light bulb.
Wire size and fuses
In continental Europe the breakers/fuse sizes used in the breaker panel are normally 10A or 16A. The wire size inside the wall is normally 1.5 mm2 for outlets protected with 10A fuse/breaker. When the circuit used 16A fuse/breaker, thicket 2.5mm2 wire is normally used to them. The grounded outlets have three wires going to them: live, neutral and ground.
The extension cords are typically built using 1.5 mm2 flexible wire, because it can handle current up to 16A without heating too much (will get somewhat warm on full 16A). Long extension cords for heavy use sometimes use 2.5 mm2 wire thickness.
The cables feeding equipment are typically use 1.5 mm2, 1 mm2 or 0.75 mm2 wires depending on the power equipment uses. The 1.5 mm2 wire is OK for full continuous 16A current, while 1.0 mm2 can handle 10A. The thin 0.75 mm2 wire can handle only 6A current. Those thinner wires are allowed and even safe even on circuit protected with 16A breaker/fuse on the conditions that the equipment being powered is protected so that it can’t take more power than the wire can handle (fuse inside rated to power it takes for example) and the mains cable when faces short circuit will trips the up to 16A fuse/breaker before the cable starts to melt.
Equipment design
All devices should be designed to expect live on both mains power carrying wires, because configurations where either one of them can be live or neutral are possible. Under the European Low Voltage Directive (which applies across the whole EU, the EEA and countries that follow CENELEC standards) all appliances brought to market have to be safe to use in either polarity.
The neutral side might not be near the ground potential. It’s also possible that you may have a neutral fault on a TN-C/TN-C-S system as used in the UK and Ireland etc, which could introduce a significant voltage on neutral. There are also installations where both mains wires can be live compared to ground (some locations in Norway, some old installations, some isolated power on hospitals).
Some appliances do not require an earth connection. They are known as type 2 and will have a symbol of a square inside a slightly larger square on the appliance label. Other clues (although not 100% reliable), are a plastic case or flat 2 core cable. Those dual isolated devices appliances are typically supplied with Euro plug.
For best electrical design safety it would be best that the mains switch switches both mains power wires to guarantee that there is no voltage present in the device when the power is turned off. If a double pole switch is fit for its purpose, voltage and current ratings not exceeded, it will usually be safer than a single pole switch. There is no problem if extension cord has “switched” hot and neutral.
In practical equipment there are many devices that do not switch both lines on mains switch. his indeed means that the power supply electronics is on ground or live potential, when switched off. But I don’t see a big problem here is the device is well built. Some issue pertains to the isolation of devices from live using single pole switches, internal fuses and breaker/cut-outs.
In some cases equipment can have dual fuses (one for each incoming mains wire) to make sure that there is always fuse on the live side. The lack of polarisation might explain why some regulatory regimes in Europe are keen on double pole breakers. Majority of equipment have only one fuse in the mains input, so depending the power plug direction, it might end to be at the live or neutral side. Once single phase 230v is supplied, the lack of polarisations means that on an appliance with a single pole switch, or a device containing an internal fuse/cut-out that there is a 50:50 chance that some parts of the circuitry will still be “live” if it’s turned off or the internal fuse blows or a cut-out trips. Be careful out there!
128 Comments
Tomi Engdahl says:
UK law requires a suitable fuse to be fitted in each plug to protect the appliance flexible cord.
Other European countries do not have such requirement.
Tomi Engdahl says:
So what’s wrong with adapters?
Nothing wrong with well made adapters (from Europe to US plugs for example) that are used with devices that can handle European 230V mains power.
This type of adapter will work OK in continental Europe. It is somewhat less safe than real European power cord because of the issues on US power plug (which I feel you can too easily touch live metal parts compared to this Schuko plug). It is as dangerous to use as US outlets just with double voltage (230V) compared to regular US outlet (110-120V). If you touch live parts, you ca get more violent shock. The US wire has normally insulation sufficient to work at 230V as well safely enough, and the protective fuse/breaker in continental Europe (10A or 16A) is of same range as US (15A or 20A). There are also some badly built adapters that can’t handle the full load before melting..
In UK this kind of connector adapter should have built-in fuse to be safe to use because the breakers on panel are typically much higher value (30 or 32A) and the plugs need to have fuse (3-13A typically) in them to avoid disasters.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://stek.fi/perustietoa-sahkosta/sahkojarjestelmat/pistorasiat/
Suomessa käytetään nykyään yleisimmin ns. sukopistorasiaa (lyhenne sanasta suojakosketin), jossa on kaksi holkkia eli ”reikää” pistotulpan kosketintapeille ja sivuilla kaksi kosketinliuskaa pistotulpan suojakoskettimille. Jännitteiset osat eli vaihe ja nolla ovat holkeissa siten, että niihin ei pääse koskettamaan. Nykyaikaisissa pistorasioissa on lisäksi sulkulaitteet, jotka avautuvat, kun niitä molempia painetaan samanaikaisesti pistotulpalla. Jos vaikkapa lapsi yrittää työntää naulaa toiseen pistorasian rei’istä, sulkulaitteet pysyvät kiinni.
Yhteenveto pistotulppien ja pistorasioiden sopivuudesta on kuvassa alla. Pääperiaate on, että vaarallinen yhteensopivuus on estetty.
Suomessa on aikaisemmin – 1990 luvun puoliväliin saakka – asennuttu kuiviin, eristävällä lattialla varustettuihin tiloihin pistorasioita, joissa on vain kaksi reikää vaihe- ja nollajohtimille. Siihen aikaan oli myös käytössä luokan 0 (nolla) laitteita, joissa oli pyöreä pistotulppa joka sopi vain tällaiseen pistorasiaan. Tähän vanhaan pistorasiaan voidaan kytkeä kaiken tyyppiset pistotulpat. Tällaisessa asennuksessa ei ole käytössä vikasuojausta, eikä sen suojaustasoa pidetä enää riittävänä.
Luokan II laitteissa voidaan käyttää pistotulppaa, jossa ei ole suojakosketinta, koska laitteet eivät tarvitse suojamaadoitusta. Ne voidaan kuitenkin kytkeä myös sukopistorasiaan.
Kuluttajan asennettaviksi tarkoitettuja valaisimia varten asunnoissa voi olla valaisinpistorasiat. Suomessa nykyään käytettävät valaisinpistorasiat ja -pistotulpat ovat pohjoismaista rakennetta.
Uudisasennuksissa käytetään vain kuvan mukaista luokan I pistorasiaa, jossa on suojamaadoitusta varten ulkoneva tappi. Vanhoissa asennuksissa esiintyy myös yksittäisiä luokan 0 pistorasioita tai ns. kruunupistorasioita, joissa on kaksi erikseen ohjattavaa vaihejohdinta ja yhteinen nollajohdin. Vanha, luokan 0 pistotulpalla varustettu valaisin voidaan liittää vain näihin.
Teollisuudessa, rakennustyömailla ja vastaavissa tiloissa tarvitaan myös suurempia kolmivaiheisia pistorasioita eli ns. voimapistorasioita. Ne ovat rakenteeltaan pyöreitä ja niissä on viisi reikää (kolme vaihetta, nolla ja suojamaadoitus). Voimapistorasiaan sopivassa pistotulpassa on viisi piikkiä, joista suojamaadoittamiseen tarkoitettu piikki on muita paksumpi. Normaalilla 230/400 V jännitteellä kolmivaiheiset voimapistorasiat ovat punaisia.
Sähköautojen lataamista varten on kehitetty erityinen pistorasiatyyppi. Sen perusrakenne on samanlainen kuin edellä esitetyssä voimapistorasiassa. Siinä on viisi kosketinta (kolme vaihetta, nolla ja suojamaadoitus) ja lisäksi kaksi pienempää pilottikosketinta, joita voidaan käyttää kuormituksen ohjaukseen.
Satakunnan ammattikorkeakoulun (SAMK) STEKin rahoituksella tekemiä ohjeita tavallisellekin sähkönkäyttäjälle sallittuihin sähkötöihin.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0LFtt-fCyesehW4RIrYLfG52Wdj6Mjya
Tomi Engdahl says:
Kolmivaihevirta estradivalaisussa
- Case “Vihan päivät 1918″
https://www.theseus.fi/bitstream/handle/10024/10413/Lindgren.Jouni.pdf?sequence=2
Tämä tutkintotyö keskittyy sähkö- ja järjestelmäsuunnittelun kannalta merkityksellisiin
seikkoihin estradivalaisussa. Tarkoitus on selvittää sähkön signaalitie sen syntypaikasta
generaattorilta himmentimeen ja siitä edelleen valonheittimelle.
Estradivalaisussa käytettävien valonheittimien nimellisjännite Suomessa on lähes aina
230 V. Valaisimet ovat toisin sanoen yksivaiheisia. Tämä tarkoittaa sitä, että ne saavat
käyttöjännitteensä yhden vaiheen ja nollan väliltä. Usein konventionaalistaen
valonheittimien valotehoa halutaan säätää, joten yleensä ne on kytketty himmentimeen.
Koska estradivalaisussa tarvittava sähkön määrä on usein verrattain suuri, on järkevää
käyttää tässäkin sähkönjakelussa kolmivaihevirtaa. Kolmivaihesyöttöjä on kolmea eri
kokoa. Syötön sulakkeiden mukaan on mitoitettu johtimien poikkipinta-alat sekä
liittimien kestävyys. Suomessa syöttöjen koot ovat 3 · 16A, 3 · 32A, 3 · 63A ja 3 · 125A.
Syöttöjä suojaavien sulakkeiden koot ovat edellä mainuttuja vastaavat, jos ei syötöille
sähkökeskuksella olla jostain syystä vaihdettu pienempiä sulakkeita. Suomessa
käytettävät voimavirtapistorasiat ja voimavirtapistotulpat ovat CEE standardin
mukaisia.
On hyvä aina käydä itse esityspaikalla varmistamassa sähkösyötöt, jos on pienintäkään
epäilystä niistä tiedon toimittaneen henkilön asiantuntevuudesta. Kannattaa myös etsiä
käsiinsä sähkösyöttöjen sulakkeet mahdollisten ylikuormitus- ja vikatilateiden varalta.
Sulakkeita tarkastellessa kannattaa myös muistaa,
että 32A voimavirtasyötön sulakkeet voivat olla
keraamiset tai automaattivarokkeet.
Keraamiset sulakkeet ovat aina
25 ampeeriset ja automaatit yleensä 32 ampeerisia.
Tosin automaattisulakkeita löytyy myös 25
ampeerisina.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Perilex and pre-IEC 60309
plugs and sockets (mainly German)
https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/Obsolete_3hd.html
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perilex
Tomi Engdahl says:
About UK power
Ring circuit
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ring_circuit
In electricity supply design, a ring circuit is an electrical wiring technique in which sockets and the distribution point are connected in a ring. It is contrasted with the usual radial circuit, in which sockets and the distribution point are connected in a line with the distribution point at one end.
This design enables the use of smaller-diameter wire than would be used in a radial circuit of equivalent total current capacity. The reduced diameter conductors in the flexible cords connecting an appliance to the plug intended for use with sockets on a ring circuit are individually protected by a fuse in the plug. Its advantages over radial circuits are therefore reduced quantity of copper used, and greater flexibility of appliances and equipment that can be connected.
The ring final circuit concept has been criticized in a number of ways compared to radials, and some of these concerns could explain the lack of widespread adoption outside the United Kingdom.
The installation tests required for the safe operation of a ring circuit are more time-consuming than those for a radial circuit
Regulation 433-02-04 of BS 7671 requires that the installed load must be distributed around the ring such that no part of the cable exceeds its rated capacity. In some cases this requirement is difficult to guarantee
In a ring circuit, if any poor joint causes a high resistance on one branch of the ring, current will be unevenly distributed, possibly overloading the remaining conductor of the ring.
Ring circuits can occasionally generate unwanted magnetic fields.
ring-main-good-bad
https://gadsolutions.biz/electrical-services/ring-main-good-bad
Ringmains = Good
The Advantages of the 32A Ring Final Circuit ©IEE/Miet 2007.
The 230 volt ring circuit has been with us now in excess of 60 years. It was developed after the Second World War to minimise the use of copper in the massive reconstruction that followed the conflict. It was one of those simple ideas that now seems obvious, yet at the time was innovative.This installation methodology was introduced in 1947 following many years of debate which began in June 1942
The advantages are clear. To feed a given number of socket outlets using a ring main requires less copper and fewer protective devices. The benefits, however, do not stop there. The concept of the BS 1363 fused plug allows the devices connected to the ring to be appropriately protected on an individual basis. The standard fuses available are 13A, 5A & 3A
2.1 Domestic Premises:
All these devices are economically catered for and protected by the 32 amp ring main and BS 1363 fused plug. It is now the trend that the devices are supplied with a molded plug fitted with the appropriate fuse.The 32A ring main has stood the test of time and is well placed to serve the needs of our homes for the foreseeable future.
2.2 Commercial Premises:
Designers are continuing to use ring circuits to support small power requirements in offices where the power requirements are moderate and a benefit can be gained from the use of rings. 20A or 32A radial circuits are seldom used in the UK.
2.3 Retail Premises:
A mixture of ring and radial circuits are used dependent on the consequences arising from circuit failure. Freezers in a supermarket are fed individually from the distribution board to minimise losses on circuit failure. Designers will generally use ring mains for non – critical circuits.
3.0 Operational Experience:
The UK has been using the 230 volt 32A ring system to meet the small power requirements of a wide range of buildings for over 60 years. It is sensible to look at the experience we have gained to see if the system can be improved to advantage.Experience indicates few problems. The test procedures ensure that all circuit conductors are properly connected and that no bridges exist across the ring.
The Wiring Regulations “Onsite Guide” describes the how the tests should be carried out and also defines the parameters governing the use of the circuit,such as area to be served and number of sockets allowed. An unlimitednumber of sockets are allowed in any 100 sq m area.4.0 Potential Faults. There are potential installation faults, which are caught by the test procedures.
4.1.1 Live or neutral cable.If either the live or neutral cable is discontinuous at any one point, the ring will still function at all outlets, but the circuit is now two parallel feeders connected to a 32A protective device.If the break is at the centre of the ring and the load is distributed evenly around the ring there would be little problem. If, however, the break is towards one end of the ring, one cable will be taking the majority of the load current and risks over load. Testing in accordance with recommended procedures will find any break in the ring and allow remedial action to be taken.
4.1.2 Earth Continuity Cable If the earth continuity cable is disconnected at a point around the ring, there will still be earth continuity at each socket. To this extent the ring is safer than the radial circuit. Loss of an earth continuity conductor on a radial circuit may not be noticed until a shock is received.
4.2 Bridging. If a bridge is introduced across a ring circuit, the cost efficiency of the installation is diminished and current is shared between two parallel paths.This is not dangerous in normal use but could cause problems to a nun suspecting electrician working on the circuit in the future. Again testing will identify any such error.
Ringmains = Bad
Ring Circuits – The Disadvantages by Roger Lovegrove Introduction
Have we got it right or is this yet another UK outdated insular custom? In this paper I intend to show you the disadvantages of using ring circuits.
Having read David’s paper, it seems to me that the introduction of ring circuits was almost an afterthought and that the original intention was for a socket to be used on a radial circuit. In my view it should have stopped at domestic premises.
However, over the years people have been brainwashed into believing that 13A sockets mean ring circuits
Ring circuits are used almost everywhere in this country, and some others:Schools – laboratories and workshops Offices both large and small Hospitals – wards and surgical/treatment areas Retail premises, although some will not have ring circuits because of additional dangers and costs. Public buildingsAs well as Domestic At this point I would like to make it clear that I am not against ring circuits, there is aplace for them in modern installations provided they are properly designed inaccordance with BS 7671, carefully installed and tested as detailed in IEE Guidancenotes 3 or the On-Site Guide. If all three were properly applied some of the disadvantages would disappear.
Main Issues.
Safety is the main issue and safety being important becomes one of the main disadvantages. Ring circuits are misused and abused. They are installed without proper consideration as to their purpose and loading, additional points are frequently added as spurs without considering the existing layout of the circuit.They are used for heating circuits and IT circuits again, without considering the load or the need for secure protective conductor connections or reinforced cpcs.The ring circuits cost more to install than two radial circuits. Regulations – 433-02-04BS 7671. There are only four regulations that state requirements for ring circuits.The critical regulation is 433-02-04 which is probably largely ignored because it isoften impractical to apply. This regulation requires the load to be distributed aroundthe circuit so that the current in any part of the ring does not exceed the installedrating of the cable.
Disadvantage:
Not easy to achieve. Regulation 543-02-09Regulation 543-02-09. This regulation requires the protective conductor of a ring circuit to be wired in the form of a ring, unless it is formed by metal covering or ametal enclosure. Most people ignore the metal covering part and run separate cpcs for each circuit.
Hence metal trunkings become half filled with green and yellow cables that are unlikely to ever see an amp in their whole existence. Disadvantage: Waste of cable and labour.Safety Many rings are wired incorrectly particularly by DIY persons. Sometimes however electricians can get it wrong.
A lack of understanding of the system is another problem. Unless a ring circuit is wired correctly with spurs restricted to 1 double point per spur,there is an increased fire risk due to overheating of cables and connections.If there are breaks in the conductors or loose connections in terminals there are both fire and shock risks.Testing The safety of a ring circuit relies on proper testing. It is a vital part of the installation process. If the correct testing method is not fully applied defects with the circuit are unlikely to be identified and corrected. This applies to both initial testing as well as periodic inspection and testing.Testing is however a time consuming and expensive operation, hence it is very often not done fully
If the text had said that the highest value of resistance measured between phase and neutral, or cpc, with the conductors joined at the distribution board, should be a quarter of the sum of the conductor resistances added together, and all other points would be of lesser value, it would have saved the industry a great deal of unnecessary work time and cost.
Happily this method was changed for the 16th edition.The 16th Edition Method.The recommended and only proven method of testing involves breaking the ring,separating the conductors at either the distribution board or at a point, doing the tests and re-assembling the circuit after completing the tests. How can one be sure that the ring is complete after reassembly? Still a funny way of doing things! Is this a disadvantage? In many instances, probably most, ring circuits are not properly tested.
ypical Faults Found
The most dangerous fault:
Cross connections between two ring circuits or a ring and a radial so that the over-current and fault current protection is compromised becoming as much as 60 or 64 amps, disconnection times are completely blown and circuit isolation relies on 2 devices rather than a single device. Interconnections occur usually in distribution boards but can easily occur when ring circuits cables are installed in trunkings.
ther Faults
Incomplete ring on one or all circuit conductors – broken loops Part of a ring missing, a link cable having been left out, resulting in two 2.5mm2
cables being protected by a single 32 A protective device
Loose Connections due to conductors crammed into back boxes that are too small, especially for spurs, one cable not secured and overcrowded distribution boards.
Too many spurs on a ring, and spurs on spurs – risk of over-heating
Spur cables too long.
Overheating likely to cause a hot spot at a termination that may eventually burn out or cause a fire.
Break or bad connection in the cpc due to loose screws or over zealous tightening, thus increasing Zs of the circuit so that the limiting value is
exceeded and the 0.4 second disconnection time is not achieved.
Incorrect polarity. All these could cause danger and are therefore serious disadvantages. They would be eliminated by applying the correct testing methods.
Testing ring circuits can take 5 or 6 times longer than testing radial circuits, and if any of the above defects are present fault finding can take a considerable time and become very expensive. Fault finding on radial circuits is relatively simple and quick.
Big disadvantage to the installer. Who pays in the long run?
Disadvantages galore, can’t happen with radials Installation
Consider the disadvantages with circuit wiring:
A 32A ring circuit serving 100m2 uses more cable and therefore takes longer to install
than 1 x 32 A radial circuits serving 100m2
A 32A ring circuit serving 100m2 uses more cable and therefore takes longer to install
than 2 x 20A radial circuits each serving 50m2 the latter having a higher loading
capacity of 40A.
Ring circuits wired with 3 single core 2.5 mm2 cables drawn into a straight run of
conduit or trunking take much longer to install than radial circuits wired with 3 single
core 4.0 mm2 cables.
Each of these situations use less of the worlds resources of copper.
To my mind, in offices, workshops, classrooms and laboratories the only justification
for installing a ring circuit is where a single circuit is run completely around the room.
If it is necessary to install all 6 conductors in a single run of conduit or trunking then 2
radial circuits are much more practical and cost effective.
I have discussed this with many engineers who all agree with this philosophy. I know
that some engineers will not consider using ring circuits in commercial installations.
Additional points. Domestic and commercial consumers have a multitude of low-current
appliances. New installations need many sockets and flexibility is needed to
allow furniture to be moved around and for future alterations and additions.
Extending or breaking into a ring circuit is not a straight forward exercise.
Many domestic ring circuits have been modified incorrectly by DIY persons
and are no longer a ring and are probably unsafe.
More often than not, particularly in domestic premises, additional points are installed
as spurs from the ring or spurs from spurs, with total disregard for the existing load
and usage. This can, depending on the load, change the balance of the circuit.
Unless thorough testing is carried out on a new or particularly a modified ring
circuit, wiring faults may go undetected and invalidate the basic safety
principles of the system.
Another potential danger and disadvantage.
Training
It has been said many times that if electricians are trained properly the problems
would not exist. I do not disagree with that. An apprentice who is brought up with the
system should understand the correct installation methods, however testing is a
different issue.
We have big labour problems in this country. There is a dearth of competent home
grown time served electricians.
Much of our labour comes from agencies and you get what you are sent. In London
you hardly ever hear English spoken on construction sites. Electricians trained in EU
countries other than Ireland will not have heard of ring circuits. They may be very
good competent tradesmen in their own countries but never-the-less are not competent
to install socket circuits in this country.
Europeans do not understand ring circuits. This also applies to Australians, New
Zealanders and South Africans many of whom come to this country to make a
fortune.
It is
hardly surprising that there are problems. In these circumstances independent testing
is essential, but is it done? It becomes expensive for the contractor and ultimately the
client.
IEE Guidance Notes show radial circuits in the conventional circuit arrangements.
• 32 A ring – 7 kW – 100 m2
• 32 A radial – 7 kW – 100 m2
• 20 A radial – 4.5 kW – 50 m2
In my view
• 2 x 20A radials better than 1 x 32A ring
A 20 A circuit to serve 50 m2 floor area and a 32 amp circuit, 100 m2. These are
based on the maximum anticipated load in these areas not exceeding 5 kW or 7 kW
respectively.
The limiting factor in such areas is the cable length – voltage drop and the earth loop
impedance of the circuit. Voltage drop is unlikely to be a problem neither will earth
loop impedance because in the near future all such circuits will require RCD
protection. The limiting factor need only be the maximum anticipated load that would
be used in the area. It is now recommended that kitchens are treated as a separate entity and have at
least one ring circuit. 2 x 20 A radial circuits in a kitchen will use less cable than a ring circuit and
provide greater capacity as long as care is taken to ensure that fixed loads such
as washing machines, driers etc are not all on one circuit.
A tree circuit is simply a radial circuit with branches. A 20 A tree circuit wired with
2.5 mm2 cables would be far more versatile than a straight radial circuit and probably
far more practical.
Typically a standard 3 bedroom domestic property could be adequately served by
2 x 20 A 2.5 mm2 radial or tree circuits, and
1 x 32 A 4.0 mm2 radial or tree circuit in the kitchen.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Average household items in Europe run on 230V 50 Hz AC protected with 10A or 16A breaker or fuse on mains panel. The house gets power from efficient three phase feed. The special items that need more power than available from normal single phase outlet can provide usually use three phase power that is either permanently wired (for example stoves in Finland considered to be standard feature in apartment) or use an outlet in case they need to be easily plugged in/out (stoves in countries where people are bring their own, heavy machinery on construction, industrial machines, stage lights and PA on clubs etc. )
Tomi Engdahl says:
In radial wiring
The typical wire thickness (for live, neutral and ground) is either 1.5 mm2 (for 10A circuits) and 2.5 mm2 (for 16A circuits). The extension cords typically are built using 1.5 mm2 cable. The cables feeding equipment are typically use 1.5 mm2, 1 mm2 or 0.75 mm2 wires depending on the power equipment uses.
The equipment have fuse or other means that protects against overload situation. The device wire is thick enough that it will withstand short circuit situations so long time that the 10A or 16A breaker/fuse on the mains panel trips. The equipment wire does not work as fuse in this system.
Sensotech says:
Informative blog
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prospective_short-circuit_current
The prospective short-circuit current (PSCC), available fault current, or short-circuit making current is the highest electric current which can exist in a particular electrical system under short-circuit conditions. It is determined by the voltage and impedance of the supply system. It is of the order of a few thousand amperes for a standard domestic mains electrical installation, but may be as low as a few milliamperes in a separated extra-low voltage (SELV) system or as high as hundreds of thousands of amps in large industrial power systems.
In designing domestic power installations, the short-circuit current available on the electrical outlets should not be too high or too low. The effect of too high short-circuit current is discussed in the previous section. The short-circuit current should be around 20 times the rating of the circuit to ensure the branch circuit protection clears a fault quickly. Quick disconnecting is needed, because during a line-to-ground short circuit the grounding pin potential on the power outlet can rise relative to the local earth (concrete floor, water pipe etc.) to a dangerous voltage, which needs to be shut down quickly for safety. If the short-circuit current is lower than this figure, special precautions need to be taken to make sure that the system is safe; those usually include using a residual-current device (a.k.a. ground fault interrupter) for extra protection.
The short-circuit current available on the electrical outlets is often tested when inspecting new electrical installations to make sure that the short-circuit current is within reasonable limits. A high short-circuit current on the outlet also shows that the resistance from the electrical panel to the outlet is low, so there won’t be an unacceptably high voltage drop on the wires under normal load.
Tomi Engdahl says:
No More Wiring Light Switches – The Secret is Out – Quinetic Wireless Switch with Built in Receiver
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wnGN4RetJk
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.epanorama.net/blog/2019/08/03/extension-cord-failure-and-teardown/
Tomi Engdahl says:
UK power issues:
Can you use a 20 Amp double pole switch to control a spur from a ring final circuit? BS7671
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToqrYhZ6N64
In kitchens, it’s often desirable to be able to control a hidden 13A socket outlet remotely. For example when the socket is behind a washing machine or dishwasher.
With reference to BS7671 can you use a 20Amp switch to control a socket connected to the spur off a ring final circuit?
Tomi Engdahl says:
Neutral and ground are in Finland connected together on the main distribution panel. Their voltage would be in ideal world zero world, but in real world there can be some small potential differences (millivolts to few volts) due various reasons: resistive losses due load current on neutral, resistive losses due leakage current on grounding and inductively coupled voltages to wires.
Connection of neutral to ground is different from country to country. In Denmark Neutral and Earth are tied together in the transformer for the neighborhood. In the house Earth is made by hammering at skewer in the ground outside the house. With this approach 3V is a normal difference between Neutral and Earth.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Power supplies designed to be connected to European mains outlets are designed to work well even if live and neutral were interchanged (non polar plugs can be plugged in both ways) and even when neither of pins are in ground potential.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Exploring a failed British shaver socket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRuVpVERjGY
These shaver sockets are used in the UK to provide a transformer isolated 115/230V supply for safer use of things like shavers, and recharging things like toothbrushes and lady-toys.
It turns out that my guess of 100VA was a bit old fashioned. This thing was rated a mere 20VA (20W). Not that it matters much, because it’s now rated 0VA because the thermal fuse has failed. Most likely because of a high load being plugged into the outlet.
Viewer comments:
I’ve mainly seen them in the UK. Not in the rest of Europe. Have used them to power my laptop, when I haven’t brought an adapter for the UK plug.
Some commenters are suggesting it could have been overloaded by a toothbrush charger. No – these only use a watt or two at maximum, and typically less than half a watt once the toothbrush is charged. There is no way this would ever overheat a 20VA transformer, or even warm it much above ambient temperature. Vendors pushing special “electric toothbrush compatible” sockets are selling you alarmist snake oil.
eing familiar with building design and code from an earlier job, the standard here in the US is for wet locations to simply have a GFCI protected outlet. Given that most shavers today are battery powered, its kind of a moot point as the main danger from the outlet is usually from hair driers which can draw close to 2kW. Too much to practically isolate. But with the proliferation of smart phones one nice standard to have would be for sockets that have USB outlets designed for wet locations that are water resistant, isolated and protected from ground faults and leakage.
My college dorm in the United States had them. Additionally it had a dedicated razor blade slot (that just dropped the blades into the wall cavity, I guess they figured they would just replace the building when they filled up) And ashtrays built into all the furniture.
The house I grew up in over here in NZ ( built 1975 ) had one of those. Not so common these days, seems to be standard outlets with RCD’s in bathrooms now, or RCD back at the fusebox.
Used to see these a lot in houses built in the 1960s and 1970s in Canada.
Square metal plate with a single ungrounded 120 VAC outlet marked “RAZOR ONLY”, employing an isolation transformer.
Where I live in Canada, they weren’t immediately replaced by GFCI receptacles… that came later (late 1980s/early 1990s)… for about ten years (1977 – 1987 ?) a conventional 120V, 15A duplex receptacle was right next to the bathroom sink, eagerly awaiting for something to be submerged while powered. Local codes require GFCIs now, but there is a ten year window between the safety of the “RAZOR ONLY” isolation transformer and the GFCI receptacle.
Its like those cheap 100 watt travel power converter that go from 120v -> 240v or 240v -> 120v. You always get people plugging in a 1800 watt hair dryer and wondering why the thing went up in smoke!
I’ve seen these plugs often when cruising or in airplanes. On our last 2 cruises (NCL, Holland America) we had a water pick along. It was a 120vt plug, and on both ships the plug barely fit. Forced in as the prongs were slightly wider and yet it frequently slipped out as contact was made only on the very interior of the plug prong. Could plug it into other outlets in the cabin with out problem.
Now what I really would like to know is why British Airways changed there seat electrical systems on their planes. Prior to traveling we checked that our CPAP machines would work at our seats (110/220 rated) yet on the plane they would only work 5 sec. and then blow the circuit. During flight they actually radioed to their facilities to find out why and were told all the plugs and breakers were all ‘updated’ to lower trip voltages. Any idea why?
Probably to take strain off older plane wiring.
Common in Swedish hotels. Exists in some Swedish homes, most built in the 70-80′s. I have one like it built into my upstairs bathroom light fixture. In the fixture in the downstairs bathroom I’ve retofitted a GFC beacuse that outlet was straight to mains and the house is so old that there are few grounded outlets let alone a GFC in the fusebox.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Vs: Norjalainen kolmivaihevirta
https://lampopumput.info/foorumi/threads/norjalainen-kolmivaihevirta.21539/
Tomi Engdahl says:
Mineral Insulated Cables – Easy To Install, But Do You REALLY Know How?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fll0OZq6Ho
We love the look of bare copper mineral insulated cables. We’ve chosen to install some in the kitchen area of our studio. This short video will show the critical stages required when working with mineral insulated cable (sometimes called MICC or Pyro). See how the cable is stripped, made waterproof with a pot and tested for insulation resistance. We then insulate and identify the conductors before connecting them to a BG Metal Clad socket outlet.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral-insulated_copper-clad_cable
Mineral-insulated copper-clad cable is a variety of electrical cable made from copper conductors inside a copper sheath, insulated by inorganic magnesium oxide powder. The name is often abbreviated to MICC or MI cable, and colloquially known as pyro (because the original manufacturer and vendor for this product in the UK was a company called Pyrotenax). A similar product sheathed with metals other than copper is called mineral insulated metal sheathed (MIMS) cable.
MI cables are used for power and control circuits of critical equipment, such as the following examples:
Nuclear reactors
Exposure to dangerous gasses
Air pressurisation systems for stairwells to enable building egress during a fire
Hospital operating rooms
Fire alarm systems
Emergency power systems
Emergency lighting systems
Temperature measurement devices; RTDs and Thermocouples.
Critical process valves in the petrochemical industry
Public buildings such as theatres, cinemas, hotels
Transport hubs (railway stations, airports etc.)
Mains supply cables within residential apartment blocks
Tunnels and mines
Electrical equipment in hazardous areas where flammable gases may be present e.g. oil refineries, petrol stations
Areas where corrosive chemicals may be present e.g. factories
Building plant rooms
Hot areas e.g. power stations, foundries, and close to or even inside industrial furnaces, kilns and ovens
MI cable fulfills the passive fire protection called circuit integrity, which is intended to provide operability of critical electrical circuits during a fire. It is subject to strict listing and approval use and compliance
A similar appearing product is mineral-insulated trace heating cable, in which the conductors are made of a high-resistance alloy. A heating cable is used to protect pipes from freezing, or to maintain temperature of process piping and vessels.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Power Outlets in United Kingdom
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abqMLqHwqpo
I’ve heard that electrical system in UK is super safe, but how super?
Viewer comments:
Normal People on vacation: this place is so nice let’s go to the gift shops!
Electroboom: where the hell is the breaker box
As an Englishman, I can confirm treading on one of our plugs is worse than treading on Lego.
It takes a lot of effort and imagination to overcome a UK plug and nearly start an electrical fire. My congratulations…
Every portable appliance is fused at 13A max including adapters and splitter so even a double socket on a 32A ring main can only draw 26A (2 x 13) or 13A for a single socket. This also ensure that the protective devices have a diversity of 2:1 to ensure the plug top fuse will operate first to prevent nuisance tripping
Another safety design feature is that the cord hangs down the wall when plugged in reducing the likelihood of tripping over the cord.
I’ve often seen chargers fall out of North American sockets under their own weight, or even worse, partly out leaving a nice big gap for something metallic to fall into and short it.
A slightly more questionable part of UK household electrical standards is the use of ring final circuits instead of radials. It saved copper at a time when prices were high, but is dangerous if the ring is broken through a loose wire or error.
Ring faults are also a pain to trace lol
Agree with the ring comment. We should use radials.
The fact that he knows how to hurt himself and not kill himself proves how smart he really is
Tomi Engdahl says:
Portable Mains Kit from Aldi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70LhBdwQQL8
A mains distribution box for use at campsites. 16A plug connects to site electrical system. Box has a miniature consumer unit with MCB and RCD, neon indicator, three 13A outlets and two USB sockets.
Viewer comments:
This device is intended to be used at a camp site and I bet they already have stringent requirements that may differ from consumer equipment , they may have designed this with that in mind.
Those connectors are more commonly known as CEE plugs with the blue ones being single phase 220-240v, red being three phase 380-400v and yellow being single phase 110-120. They are basically the industry standard for the more rugged industry type appliances in europe.
I believe a lot of camp sites only offer 10A power but i could be wrong.
Having a 30mA AC type RCD and a 16A MCB is, err, strange. It’s like the 13A U.K. multi-way sockets/extension leads that have a 13A fuse. Why? There has to be a 13A fuse in the plug that these are wired to… Same with this product. A 16A socket that provides power for equipment that is used outside, in order to comply with the standards would have to be protected with a 30mA RCD and a 16A MCB anyway.
And a AC type RCD is not designed to protect against any DC leakage current, even though there is a integral DC PSU… And the type C MCB is not exactly likely to trip first either. So this so called protection is not really adding anything unless you think the campsite has dodgy mains electricity infrastructure. In which case, why are you knowingly using such a supply?
And what is the size of cable that is provided? Others have speculated that it may be undersized…
I’m also not keen on how the neon is wired. Again, as others have said, if the Earth wire is open circuit, the neon may not light, but everything is still live. So some fool may start poking around, say checking the cable. If the cable has damaged insulation, said fool in thinking it’s dead, may zap themselves if the supply is not to current standards and does not have a RCD to save the fool…
Tomi Engdahl says:
SDG #06 Mains Isolation Transformers and UK Earthing Systems
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byrDzJtR7Fs
In this video, I give a very brief introduction as to why you might want to use an isolation transformer when you’re working at your electronics bench.
I also give an introduction to the various earthing systems used in the UK #ElectronicsCreators
Very good video. Isolation transformers are hard for people to understand. The main thing, I think to remember, is the main purpose of the isolation transformer for a tech bench is to separate the neutral and the earth ground. That way if the DUT is earth grounded, the neutral is not and the circuit is only the hot and neutral of the output of the isolation transformer. Be aware most isolation transformers for sale today have the neutral and the earth ground bonded together at the output receptacle defeating the separation and for a tech bench one would have to modify the isolation transformer for tech use, in my opinion. Tom
Tomi Engdahl says:
Safety recall smart socket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=580iRXP0bxw
Update:- There IS a very minimalist wiring guide in the setup instructions that clearly shows two brown wires going to both the live and the earth terminals. If wired like that, the case of an earthed appliance plugged into the socket would become live at full mains voltage.
Note that while there is a metal mounting plate, it has a painted surface, so it does not make a good connection to the earth/ground tabs at the sides.
This is a smart socket that is sold under different brands. As it’s been recalled I thought I’d take a look at it to see if we could work out why.
I didn’t test it under heavy load, so I don’t know if the recall is purely down to the obvious grounding oddity, wiring diagram error or other aspects too. But the circuitry actually looks well designed, notably the use of a synchronous rectifier, basic filtering and good electrical separation.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Terminating a 400A 3 phase supply
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hng2y68UZR4
Today im terminating a 400a 3 phase supply with jointech cabling.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Working in a 2000A widowmaker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8peaTlAe9M
In this one we are back at the industrial estate installing 4 sets of 185mm2 parallels into a old 2000a SquareD “Widowmaker”, you get to the the M12 torque wrench working its magic again too.
Putting away 9 x 185mm2 cables
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69SedNoZpdw
The last video of this job, here we are putting away 9 x 185mm2 cables to feed the 630A switch in this MCCB board, all things considered it went pretty well even with the crimper problems we had.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Tapping off a MEM 3 phase busbar chamber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGcn7gXDh3Q
In this one im at a local football club connecting a 40a 3 phase supply into a old MEM busbar chamber, hopefully this video is informative and interesting while also offering an insight into a day in the life of a commercial electrician.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Upgrading cut out fuses with the DNO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEm3WNRPM9s
In this one we are away from the industrial estate to work with a local DNO to upgrade the supply tails from a cutout at a football stadium to 150mm2 so 315a fuses can be fitted, we also get to try out our new hydraulic crimper from SWA.
I hope you enjoy this video and it can offer an insight into a day in the life of an industrial electrician.
Tomi Engdahl says:
If Wago made ceiling roses #shorts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OK0ExReIXIk
Screwless terminals such as the Wago 221 are popular with UK electricians. We also see screwless terminals in LED downlights. So why has no one launched a WAGO connector based ceiling rose?
This prototype ceiling rose using Wago connectors turned up at the studio so we decided to test it out.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Fitting 3 phase molded case circuit breakers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGSIosGIQY0
Tomi Engdahl says:
Can I Use Connectors Inside Trunking to Extend Cables?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrvTFOhpIUI
Electricians often ask this question but struggle to find an answer. Joe Robinson delves deep into the UK wiring regulations BS7671 to find out more. Electricians often need to extend existing circuits to install a new consumer unit or make an addition to a circuit. Placing connectors inside trunking would seem a logical approach in many installations. However, what are the risks and does it matter if the trunking is plastic or metal?
Tomi Engdahl says:
Don’t Make This Mistake When Installing an EV Charger
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un3KZ8rWy-s
The UK wiring regulations are very specific when it comes to choosing RCD protection for electric vehicle charge points. Most electricians know about the need to avoid type AC RCDs. However, hidden within the regulations is the need for RCDs which isolate all live conductors. This is easy when selecting a regular RCD but causes some challenges when choosing to protect a circuit with an RCBO. An RCBO is a combination of RCD and MCB circuit protection. Most RCBOs only disconnect the line conductor. In this video, we explain the RCD requirements of BS7671 and the difference between single, double and single pole and switched neutral RCBOs.
EV CHARGER installation UK – can you connect to an existing CONSUMER UNIT?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5wn5Eju3_Y
We look at some of the electrical design considerations when installing an EV charger with an existing electrical installation.
We review the choice of RCD, availability of matching MCBs and the option to add a surge protection device.
We also look at the meter tails and how they’ve been split to add a new consumer unit.
00:00 Connecting an EV charger to an existing consumer unit
00:54 What’s the problem with type AC RCD’s
01:30 No need for RCD protection as the cable is clipped direct
01:56 Can you get an existing MCB?
02:40 New consumer unit best option for this installation.
03:00 A great opportunity to add a surge protection device
04:20 Where’s the labels Gaz?
05:00 Short conductors for surge protection device
05:30 Splitting meter tails for the new consumer unit.
08:00 Current transformer for demand management
Tomi Engdahl says:
What Wire Connector is the Best? Settling a Debate! Wire Nut VS Wago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgjo36-jaFY
In this video we will be having a closer look at wire nuts and wago connectors. Both are used for electrical house wiring and both come with their own advantages & disadvantages. I will present you their most important ones by doing a couple of different tests and at the end you will know what connector you will use in the future
Let’s get started!
0:00 Wire Nut VS Wago Overview
0:59 Intro
1:57 Comparison Criteria
2:58 Ease of use
5:27 Possible Problems
6:19 Fast to use?
6:54 Reusability
7:23 Size
7:44 Price
8:01 Pull Test
8:46 Resistance Test (Heat)
10:05 Flammable?
10:22 Verdict
Tomi Engdahl says:
Whats in my toolbag 2022? – Essential electricians tools
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yp32hW59Mco
In this one i run through whats in my toolbag 2022, and discuss the tools i use and why.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.webberelectronics.com/info/iec-chart
Tomi Engdahl says:
Jakorasian kytkentä
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_95a0hldeoI
10 vinkkiä jakorasian kytkemiseen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4gszV01MvE
Tomi Engdahl says:
3-vaihepistorasian asennus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz3pqR7T-84
Näitä on kooltaan 16 A, 32 A, 63 A ja 125 A ja toiminnaltaan ne ovat samanlaisia. Vaihejärjestys on tärkeä, koska kolmivaihemoottorit pyörivät väärään suuntaan jos vaiheet ovat ristissä. Siihen on olemassa perinteinen temppu eli kaksi vaihetta vaihdetaan päittäin niin taas vaihtuu pyörimissuunta. Tavallinen ongelma työmailla missä yhteisessä käytössä 3-vaihejatkoroikat.
Kolmivaihemoottorin kytkentä tähteen tai kolmioon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euvTxL0ZyN4
Se riippuu moottorista ja jännitteestä, miten se kytketään. Se on joko tähteen tai kolmioon. Tähtikytkennässä käämeihin vaikuttaa vaihejännite ja kolmiokytkennässä pääjännite. Video liittyy uuteen osioon, joka tullaan liittämään Sähkötekniikka 2021 sähköasennusharjoituksiin tulevaisuudessa.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Nollattu vanha pistorasia – maadoitusta ei ole vedetty erikseen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSmGMLa07WA
Tässä kohteessa oli maadoitettu pistorasia, mutta ne ovat lähes poikkeuksetta tämän aikakauden kohteissa nollattu. Se siis tarkoittaa sitä, että maadoitusliuskaan vedetään johdonpätkä nollaliittimestä. Ongelma on siinä, jos nollaliitin aukeaa ja yhteys nollaan katkeaa. Samalla nollaliitin on yhteydessä laitteen runkoon. Sitten laite ei toimi, mutta sen kuoressa on jännite. Sitten on sähköiskun vaara jos koskee laitteen runkoa ja maadoitusta samaan aikaan. Vikavirtasuojakytkin katkaisisi jännitteen, mutta vanhoissa kohteissa ei niitä ole, ellei jälkeenpäin olla asennettu. Älä avaa itse peitekansia – älä tee itse sähköasennuksia – jätä sähköalan työt ammattilaisten huoleksi.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Schneider (Strömfors) Artic valokytkimen ja sen kehyksen/peitelevyn irrotus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhOKSkwBUtY
Vedä katkaisimet (napit) irti toisesta laidasta. Ainakin minulta onnistui helposti ihan sormilla vain siitä yhdestä laidasta vetämällä (jälkien välttämiseksi en käyttänyt työkaluja, vaikka napeissa onkin kolo ruuvimeisseliä varten). Parisenkymmentä näitä irrotin, eikä yksikään mennyt rikki, vaikka voimaa joutuikin hieman käyttämään ja rikkoutumista alkuun pelkäsinkin.
Keskimmäiset levyt irtoavat helposti vapauttamalla pienet nipsuttimet koloistaan pienellä meisselillä tai vaikka puukolla. Ulompi kehys/peitelevy on kiinni vain keskimmäisten varassa, joiden irrottamisen jälkeen sekin irtoaa.
Asennus takaisin tapahtuu helposti painamalla osat paikoilleen päinvastaisessa järjestyksessä.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://keskustelu.suomi24.fi/t/1693408/aggregaatin-maadoitus
Miten se on kun kesämökillä on aggregaatti sähköt niin onko siinä mitään järkeä maadoittaa aggregaatin verkkoa hautaamalla kupari silmukka maahan.
Itse en ole sitä maadoittanut.
tiedoilla ei voi antaa tyhjentävää vastausta. Tässä kuitenkin jotakin:
Oletan, että kyseessä on pienitehoinen yksivaiheinen siirrettävä aggregaatti. Sen syöttämä verkko ei ole missään yhteydessä jakeluverkon kanssa.
Pienen aggrekatin suojausmenetelmänä on suojaerotus tai suojaerotus usealle laitteelle. Aggregaatilla syötetään silloin siirrettäviä tai tilapäisiä kuormia. Silloin ei maadoituksia tarvita eikä saakaan tehdä. Aggregaatissa ei tavallisesti ole ylivirtasuojaakaan, koska ylikuormitustilanteessa jännite häviää.
Jos syötetään kiinteätä TN-S -järjestelmää, tilanne muuttuu. Silloin nopean poiskytkennän pitää perustua vikavirtasuojakytkimen käyttöön (koska generaattori ei tuota pitkäaikaista oikosulkuvirtaa) ja käyttömaadoitus aggregaatille on tehtävä.
Vikavirtasuojakytkin on tavallisesti kiinteän asennuksen puolella, joten vikavirtasuojakytkin toimii vain sen jälkeen tapahtuvien vikojen suojana. Se voi olla myös aggregaatissa. Ensimmäisen esimerkin mukaisessa aggregaatissa (jonka käämit on maasta erotettuja) vikavirtasuojakytkin vaatii toimiakseen myös toisen vian – generaattorin käämityksen maavuodon. Tällaiset samanaikaiset kaksoisviat ovat varmasti äärimmäisen harvinaisia.
Niin periaatteessa se on TN-S järjestelmä kun se syöttää mokin sähköjä (muutamia pistorasioita ja valaistusta).
Aggregaatin maadoitusliitinhän ei ole missään yhteydessä “nollaan” eli on todennäköisesti generaattorin rungossa joten on normaali pistotulppa liitäntäinen ja ei näinollen ole väliä mitenpäin pistoke siinä on.
Eli periaatteessa se vastaa kuin olisi suojaerotusmuuntajan takana koko verkko.
Mutta eikös suojaerotusmuuntajan takana perinteisesti käytetä vain yhtä kulutuskojetta.
Eli tarkoitat varmaankin IT järjestelmää. Tuntuu ajan haaskaukselta yrittää selittä näille standardeja joten eiköhän olisi parempi että jos jännete ylittää yli 50 v ac niin kutsuttaisiin luvan omaavat ammattilaiset asialle sillä viime vuonna kuoli 6 ihmistä sähkötapaturmiin.
aggregaatissa on kolmivaiheinen tähteen kytketty oikosulkumoottori generaattorina, lähdön pistorasiat maadoitettuja ja maadoituskarva kytketty runkoon ja rungosta elektrodi maahan.
Eikös tämä olekin jo sitten ihan eri tilanne kuin yksivaiheinen, kelluva ja suojaeristetty oikosulkumoottoriaggregaatti? Ei kai siitä maadoittamisesta nyt mitään haittakaan ole?
Generaattorin nollan pitää olla maassa. Siten suojamaan kautta menee suuri virta, joka polttaa sulakkeet.
perässä voi käyttää vain yhtä suojausluokan 0 laitetta.
Tuo suojaerotus useammalle laitteelle tarkoittaa useamman kuin yhden suojausluokan 1 laitteen syöttämistä samalla suojaerotusmuuntajalla. Lisävaatimuksena on tuolloin maasta erotetun lisäpotentiaalintasauksen käyttö, ts. laiterungot kytketään toisiinsa maasta erotetulla lisäpotentiaalintasasuksella. Tämä toteutuu automaattisesti käytettäessä suojamaadoituksella varustettua jatkojohtoa, johon kaikki laitteet kytketään.
Pienitehoisen 1-vaiheisen generaattorin suojamaadoitetun pistorasian maadoitusliitin on yhteydessä vain generaattorin runkoon ja suojakehikkoon, ei generaattorin käämiin. Siksi pistorasiassa on vain kaksi vaihetta L1 ja L2, eikä tulpan asennolla ole merkitystä.
asia, vaikka aggregaatteja molemmat olisivatkin. Maadoituksella on merkitystä ja se tulee tehdä 1-vaiheisilla TN-S -tapauksissa ja 3-vaiheisilla tavallisesti aina.
1-vaiheisen tapauksessa suojamaadoituksen tekemisestä ei ehkä ole paljoakaan haittaa (ainakaan IT-verkkoon verrattuna), kuten toteat. Mitään hyötyä siitä ei kuitenkaan yksinään ole.
varmennustarkastuksen voi tilata mille tahansa sähkölaitteistolle kuka tahansa sähkölaitteiston haltija. Suomesta löytyy ainakin muutama valtuutettu tarkastaja, joka ymmärtää näistä jotakin.
Tarkastus eroaa lakisääteisestä varmennustarkastuksesta vain siten, ettei rekisteri-ilmoitusta tehdä verkkkoyhtiölle.
tarkat ohjeet sfs6000:ssa. Itse olen noudattanut sen kytkentäsuosituksia noissa maatalon isäntien traktoriaggregaateissa. Onko nyt kyseessä sellainen kannettava pikku aggregatti vai hieman isompi laitos? Noilla pienillä agregaateilla on tarkoitus syöttää kai yksittäisiä laitteita. Ei niinkään esim. rakennuksen sähköverkkoa. Jos aletaan syöttämään rakennuksen sähköverkkoa, niin silloin on hyvä vähän vilkaista tuota sfs6000:sta. Myös St-korteissa on erinomaiset käytännön maadoitusohjeet vähän eri tilanteisiin. Myös ohjeet mitä vaaditaan pääkytkimeltä, jos samaan taloon tulee myös jonkin jakelulaitoksen verkko ja aggregaattia käytetään varavoimana.
pelkästään SFS 6000 kanssa! Mutta tuo mainitsemasi ST-kortisto ja erityisesti sen uusi osa ST 52.40 on mielestäni jo riittävän yksityiskohtainen opus. Enkä sano tuota siksi, että olin merkittävästi avittamassa sen syntymistä!
Erityisesti vaihtokytkimen käyttöön ja kytkentään liittyvät ohjeet on ensimmäistä kertaa esitetty riittävän yksityiskohtaisesti.
Tein 15 vuotta sitten agrelaatin syöttämänä yhden mökin sähköt. Silloin asia tuli selviteltyä, en toisin tiedä onko määräykset tämän jälkeen muuttuneet tältä osin.
Jos agrekaatti on tilapäiskäytössä, niin siinähän ei ole muuta, kuin roikka töpseliin ja pora soimaan.
Mutta jos agrekaatti kytketään kiinteään verkkoon (ei yhteyttä valtakunnan sähköön), niin silloin agrekaatin liitosjohdossa pitää olla sulake sekä nollassa että vaiheessa ja siinä pitää olla vikavirtasuoja. Keskuksen nolla ja suojamaa pitää maadoittaa asiallisesti.
Jos suojamaa ei ole maissa, niin silloin on vaara että vikatilanteessa jossain lampun kuvussa onkin 230V.
Vikavirta on välttämätön, koska oikosulku voi painaa agrekaatin polvilleen, jolloin virta ei riitäkkään polttamaan sulaketta riittävän nopeasti.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka.narkive.com/RNWwAaRM/generaattorin-maadoittaminen
Löytyykö jostakin tietoa siirrettävien generaattorien
maadoittamisesta? Googlella löytyy aika hajanaista tietoa.
“Oikeansuuntainen” tapa lienee jonkinlainen maahanlyötävä
maadoituskanki, näin maadoitettiin ainakin armeijan voimakoneet. Entä
jos rakennusta syötetään generaattorilla ja se on rakennuksen
maadoituksessa kiinni?
Generaattori on sähköturvallinen laite, eikä sitä tarvitse maadoittaa,
koska nollajohtoa ei ole kytketty maahan. Rungosta ei voi saada sähköiskua,
vaikka vaihejohdin kytkettäisiin runkoon, koska henkilö ei seiso toisen
johtimen päällä.
Vaaralliseksi generaattori muuttuu, jos nollajohto kytketään maahan
vaikkapa rakennuksen kautta. Silloin kannattaa käyttää maadoituskankea.
Sähköturvallisuusmääräyksistä löytyy. Määräykset löytyvät kirjastosta
jos ei muualta.
——
Siirrettävä generaattori muodostaa maasta erotetun verkon jota
pidetään varsin turvallisena. Se muuttuu huomattavasti vaarallisemmaksi
jos se maadoitetaan. Joissain generaattoreissa on tätä varten erikseen
valvontalaite. (siis sitä että kukaan ei kytke lähtöä maihin)
Normaalielämässä samanlaisia järjestelyjä käytetään kun pitää syöttää
sähkö paikkaan joka on ‘erittäin-vaarallinen’. Mutta noista määräyksistä
löytyy kun jaksaa lukea. Hakemalla lukuja joissa puhutaan generaattoreista
ja vaarallisista paikoista pääsee jo alkuun, linkkekä vilisee tekstistä
sitten muihin tähdellisiin kohtiin.
– Risto
ps. Hyvä esimerkki maadoittamattomasta (isosta) verkosta on näissä liikuteltavissa
huvipuistoissa.
: Siirrettävä generaattori muodostaa maasta erotetun verkon jota
: pidetään varsin turvallisena. Se muuttuu huomattavasti vaarallisemmaksi
: jos se maadoitetaan.
Mitenkään väheksymättä maasta erotetun sähköjärjestelmän turvallisuutta
mainitsen kuitenkin lähipiirissäni tapahtuneen tapauksen. Kesämökki, jota
syötti aggregaatti, joka oli omassa vajassaan. Mökin omistajalle oli joku
maininnut, että eikös tuo aggregaatti pitäisi maadoittaa. Mökin omistaja
siihen jotain että ei sitä nyt maadoittaa tarvi, höpö höpö! Seuraavana
kesänä, ukkonen, osuma aggregaattivajaan, siitä salama meni johtoa pitkin
taloon ja pisti ranttaliksi sen verran että yksityiskohtina mieleen jäivät
astiakaapissa pirstaleina olleet astiat ja puoli metriä katosta alaspäin
pudonnut kattokruunu johtojen varassa. Joo, ei sitä aggregaattia
maadoittaa tarvitse.
Voihan se generaattorin tuottama sähkö olla kelluvaa, mutta jos
generaattorin rungon maadoittaisi kunnolla jotta salama menee siitä
maahan eikä ehkä lähtisi harhailemaan syötettävään kohteeseen.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Aggregaatin
testaus
https://energiaa.pks.fi/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Aggregaatti-testausraportti.pdf
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/ikeas-askvaeder-livsfarlig.407598/
* They market it for fixed installation use, with nailed cables, wall mounted outlets, etc. But, the cord does not hold the quality (EKRK, formerly called KULO) that you should have there.
* There is nothing that prevents you from connecting a shitload of sockets in series, more than you should load the cord and the rest of the installation.
* The plugs between the parts are easy to pull apart, especially if you don’t mount it firmly. The plug is a small plug that is easy for children and pets to put in their mouths, and the contacts are not far from the holes, so the insulation distance to the mouth is then only a couple of millimeters.
* The plugs between the parts use very small connectors, with narrow pins and what looks like a fairly small socket that they fit in. They don’t seem to be suitable for any large currents, which can easily happen if some home pluger series connects a bunch of sockets and knocks in fridge, freezer, stove, vacuum cleaner and dishwasher in the same.
* The whole “plug and play” thing encourages people who don’t understand what they’re doing to do things they don’t understand, thus doing something dangerous.
Personally, I think they seem like a dangerous bastard between a loose extension cord and a fixed installation, which does neither good or safe.
I don’t think they put such a product on the market without fully checking the approval requirements and pet safety on the stuff.
It is certainly possible to build something abnormal with a number of sockets, but the same thing is possible with ordinary socket strips.
Not exactly cheap stuff.
No more dangerous than optional branch contacts in terms of the fact that they can be connected to large units, the fuse must take care of the case that too large loads are connected.. Max 3680W ie 16A.
As for the connection contacts, they look like a grounded variant of those that are usually found to connect cables to various chargers and electronics (forgot the name)
Are the items S-marked? intertek etc?
Or only CE marked?
A bit unclear. Interesting to note that the “declaration of conformity with EU directives” is not found under Assembly instructions and manuals on ikea.se, which is promised in the user manual.
MultiMan
MultiMan wrote:
Why should Thunderstorm be more unsafe than, for example, Defa engine heater cable? Just as easy to put in your mouth. There, the pins are probably coarser and can handle higher power, but they sit even more exposed than IKEA’s seem to do.
Edit:
[IMG]
Look how deep the contact sheet sits in the holes on it, plus it is a larger plug, with thicker pins, larger contact area and higher contact pressure. IKEA’s plug is somewhat larger than a USB Type B, and has small pins, perhaps 1-1.5 mm in diameter. It also requires quite a bit more force to pull out, and is not used in an indoor application where there is a fairly large risk of it being exposed to jerks.
Yes, but then how is this more dangerous than connecting regular extension cords in series? Then I don’t really understand what you think the risk is, they are rated for 16A, which is the highest normal fuse for household outlets.
edit: There is nothing that prevents me from running both coffee maker and kettle via the same branch connector, except for the fuse then.
Ikea seems to have order to ensure that it meets the requirements it has to. then it is as it was mentioned here that everything cannot be done foolproof. There are always people who are stupid and can hurt themselves with anything.
Don’t underestimate people’s stupidity, they are usually much stupider than you think.
IKEA’s product Åskväder is approved for 16A according to the product information and most wall sockets in homes are fused with a maximum of 10A, so there is immediately a margin of 6A.
It is the same as for ordinary power strips. A wall socket is normally protected with 10 A, cabling has 1.5 mm2. So the load should never be more than 10 A. However, the power sockets themselves are stamped with 16 A (The wall socket is also stamped 16 A) but it is the central fuse and the area of the wiring that determines plus the cable length of the connection. So it is the electrician’s responsibility to secure the wall outlet and to dimension the wiring to the wall outlet. Then it is a bit of common sense for those who use the branch sockets to understand that it is not possible to load any amount. Unfortunately, also a problem today when charging electric cars.
Exactly. And almost everything else these days for that matter. I think you can be pretty sure that the testing has been extensive on this system because it is an innovation. Maybe it’s the case that IKEA has realized that everyone at home uses series connections, even though the usual systems are not built for it. So they took the issue and created a system that is precisely intended to be used in the way that people do most anyway.
https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/cat/modul-grenuttag-48969/
Det här är IKEA Åskväder, deras modulära system för grendosor!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=py05Bqemq-4&t=1s
https://www.ikea.com/dk/da/manuals/askvaeder-on-off-switch__AA-2248157-3_pub.pdf
Tomi Engdahl says:
IKEA ÅSKVÄDER: Modular power strip available now
https://homekit.blog/ikea-askvader-modular-power-strip-available-now/
How often have you been annoyed by the fact that the power strip has no more free space? Or that the cable of the power strip is a few centimeters too short or much too long? According to IKEA, these problems should be a thing of the past with the modular power strip ÅSKVÄDER.
Sockets and extension cables can be extended
WithÅSKVÄDER you can buy additional modules at any time and expand the power strip by one or two sockets. Up to 10 single sockets or five double sockets can be plugged together and operate devices with up to 3,680W. The extension cable can also be extended by a further 80cm at any time.
Sockets can only be controlled together via Apple HomeKit
With the switch module in combination with the IKEA TRÅDFRI gateway, you can not only integrate the power strip into the IKEA Home smart app, but also control it via Apple HomeKit. There, however, the sockets can only be switched together.
At the current time, there’s another catch. While the switch module for 10€, the double socket for 6€, the extension cable for 4€ and even the wall mount for 1,50€ can already be ordered online, the mandatory connection cable is currently still missing. Also the single socket is not available at the moment.
https://www.ikea.com/nl/en/p/askvaeder-starter-kit-set-of-4-50486711/
Tomi Engdahl says:
Working in a 2000A widowmaker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8peaTlAe9M
In this one we are back at the industrial estate installing 4 sets of 185mm2 parallels into a old 2000a SquareD “Widowmaker”, you get to the the M12 torque wrench working its magic again too.
I hope you enjoy this video and it can offer an insight into a day in the life of an industrial electrician.
Terminating a 400A 3 phase supply
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hng2y68UZR4
Tomi Engdahl says:
Stretchy HO7 RNF rubber cable and a 32 Amp three phase plug. #shorts
https://youtube.com/shorts/osU8LxUloWM?feature=share
Tomi Engdahl says:
IKEA ÅSKVÄDER Modulære Smart Stik Kontakter – Zigbee (Smartthings / Philips Hue) – Fedt produkt !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiLqLaYzpp4
Superfed nyhed fra Ikea !, ÅSKVÄDER Smart Stik kontakter.
Udbyg efter behov som almindelig kontakt, eller tilkøb Zigbee modul, og gør din kontakt smart !. Ligesom at lege med LEGO for voksne
https://www.ikea.com/fi/fi/p/askvaeder-aloitussarja-4-osaa-50486711/
Tomi Engdahl says:
For high power three phase Powerlock connectors are used. Anything over 125A for temporary installations (events, festivals,…) is like that
After that the CEE norm plugs
Tomi Engdahl says:
In film/TV use CEEforms in 16/32/63/125 for both 1ph and 3ph (although not sure I’ve actually seen 125 1ph in use), and the sparks use powerlock for anything above that.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Government Regulations Cause More Electrical Fires
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9x3Cp3xpIM
======================
00:00 Electrical News Weekly 7th November 2022
00:40 11kV Electric shock for builder
01:24 Electrical fires increase
02:49 Bogey Box gets LORA transmission
03:50 Occupancy sensing with no sensor
04:30 Philips Ultra-efficient lamps
05:18 Top recession tips from Fergus
06:27 Rewired agency
06:40 eFIXX Awards Apprentice Employer of the Year
07:30 Screwfix Tradesperson of the year
07:58 Coming up this week
========================